How would you print this? Updated!!

[XG Print]

Sorry for the post below..Not sure what happened with it, Here is the question....This job is several hundred pcs. and will be printed manually.  Trying to decide whether I want to under base the whole thing and overlay the purple or try and but register the white and purple.  Little worried about holding reg. with the butt reg. method.  I would normally always under base this and overprint but this is going to be a bunch of white ink on the shirt.  How would you do it?

[Stinkhorn Press]

manual shop - this is one I'd go with what my printer wanted to do.

But we'd probably UB the purple because some of those details on the back would get muddy otherwise in our process. Would put the white on a 150S mesh. need the right emulsion thickness for the consistency of your purple to get it to print well (we find NO flood keeps such prints crisper for our purposes).

The suckiest part of that route is needing to UB the front print too to keep the colors consistent.

[mk162]

I would just custom mix a color for the front to make it work without an UB if it were me.

The whole job would look better with an UB honestly.

[Homer]

Lime gets "B" rating for discharge...I would go that route first and if that fails, UB the whole image. PITA but that's manual printing for ya! it builds character 

[mimosatexas]

Depending on how nicely the shirts print, I would probably print the purple as a single pass, adding a little white or using an opaque ink with lower mesh count, then print the white. That way front and back match. You could possibly underage the white with the purple if the purple will mat down well enough, and use light pressure and higher eom on the white so you don't have to pfp it. I do stuff like that a lot, using a darker ink as an underbase for a top white and basically using the ink to create a smooth surface for the white, but compensating for the darker color with lower mesh and higher eom.

[Colin]

Underbase 150S Mesh
Purple 180 Mesh
Highlite White 180 Mesh

Nice, Sharp, Clean, Consistent front print and back print.  Money in the bank.

Why manually and not the auto?

[mimosatexas]

Underbase 150S Mesh
Purple 180 Mesh
Highlite White 180 Mesh

Nice, Sharp, Clean, Consistent front print and back print.  Money in the bank.

Why manually and not the auto?

This is pretty much dead on for the "standard" way, though I would probably do the purple with 225S instead of 180S.

[XG Print]

Underbase 150S Mesh
Purple 180 Mesh
Highlite White 180 Mesh

Nice, Sharp, Clean, Consistent front print and back print.  Money in the bank.

Why manually and not the auto?

Ha Ha wish I had  a choice!!  Still a manual shop but hoping to change that ASAP!! Getting to busy to be pushing and pulling all day!!

[3Deep]

Colin is what I'd go with also, one hit underbase which helps any top print work better then flash and hit your highlight white boom out the door.

[Sbrem]

We wouldn't underbase the back, unless we were to underbase the front as well. Butt registration should not be an issue, and print the purple first, no flash the the white. This way, the purple will look the same front and back. Or, the underbase route as already laid out. Our production manager runs the manual for all the specialty work that goes on it, and that's what she would want...

Steve

[farmboygraphics]

I'd print both on 180S. Give the Purple a 2 point outline, print it first, Flash (your option, l like it, keeps the details and edges clean) PFP your white. Maybe not the most efficient but it works for me and takes the worry of tack outta the picture.

[Colin]

Underbase 150S Mesh
Purple 180 Mesh
Highlite White 180 Mesh

Nice, Sharp, Clean, Consistent front print and back print.  Money in the bank.

Why manually and not the auto?

This is pretty much dead on for the "standard" way, though I would probably do the purple with 225S instead of 180S.

When I look at that purple, it has a lot of flourescents in it.  So I know it will print fairly thin/translucent.  I would want the extra ink lay down from the 180.

We wouldn't underbase the back, unless we were to underbase the front as well. Butt registration should not be an issue, and print the purple first, no flash the the white. This way, the purple will look the same front and back. Or, the underbase route as already laid out. Our production manager runs the manual for all the specialty work that goes on it, and that's what she would want...

Steve

Different strokes for different folks (yes, bad pun)

I wouldn't print the purple direct to shirt simply because of the lack of fiber trap that purple would have, especially on a Gildan 100%.  Some shops will be A O.K. with it and that's just fine for them

[alan802]

We wouldn't underbase the back, unless we were to underbase the front as well. Butt registration should not be an issue, and print the purple first, no flash the the white. This way, the purple will look the same front and back. Or, the underbase route as already laid out. Our production manager runs the manual for all the specialty work that goes on it, and that's what she would want...

Steve

tHIS

[Sbrem]

Underbase 150S Mesh
Purple 180 Mesh
Highlite White 180 Mesh

Nice, Sharp, Clean, Consistent front print and back print.  Money in the bank.

Why manually and not the auto?

This is pretty much dead on for the "standard" way, though I would probably do the purple with 225S instead of 180S.

When I look at that purple, it has a lot of flourescents in it.  So I know it will print fairly thin/translucent.  I would want the extra ink lay down from the 180.

We wouldn't underbase the back, unless we were to underbase the front as well. Butt registration should not be an issue, and print the purple first, no flash the the white. This way, the purple will look the same front and back. Or, the underbase route as already laid out. Our production manager runs the manual for all the specialty work that goes on it, and that's what she would want...

Steve

Different strokes for different folks (yes, bad pun)

I wouldn't print the purple direct to shirt simply because of the lack of fiber trap that purple would have, especially on a Gildan 100%.  Some shops will be A O.K. with it and that's just fine for them

I was answering his question as pertains to manual printing; we would run it on an auto, where the flashing would not be slowing it down. We have never had a complaint on matting down, which, you are correct, is just fine for us. On a manual with a speed table and a loader/unloader, he would make damn good time on a manual. Been there, done that.

Steve