Looking for advice from Compressed Air Expert.

[Stinkhorn Press]

In a similar vein to this post: http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,15311.0.html

I am setting up my first auto.
I am setting up my first compressed air system at the same time and realize that I know nothing about compressed air.

1 auto at this moment is the ONLY air needed. 8/10 RPM asking for 9CFM.

I bought an older used 3HP Kaeser screw type compressor. Pierre donated to me an old 100 gallon tank. 

I know I need a chiller.  What else? How is this set up? (is this locally available chiller overkill http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5490962082.html? could i do better for cheaper with a little looking?) Anyone who knows their stuff wanna give me 5-10 minutes to talk me through wants/needs? Please PM me and I'll get you a cell number.
I have a contractor currently working in the building who is a old plumber and very capable of running black iron pipes while he's here.

[tonypep]

JC or KC I forget. Chatanooga. 423-238-4261. Tell him I referred you. He knows way too much!!!!

[Stinkhorn Press]

JC or KC I forget. Chatanooga. 423-238-4261. Tell him I referred you. He knows way too much!!!!

Thanks!

[Croft]

I bought Rapidairs 3/4 Maxline kit and love it , was easy to install. I used it with my new KAESER so should have a super clean air system now compared to the iron pipe I had used

[Evo]

In a similar vein to this post: http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,15311.0.html

I am setting up my first auto.
I am setting up my first compressed air system at the same time and realize that I know nothing about compressed air.

1 auto at this moment is the ONLY air needed. 8/10 RPM asking for 9CFM.

I bought an older used 3HP Kaeser screw type compressor. Pierre donated to me an old 100 gallon tank. 

I know I need a chiller.  What else? How is this set up? (is this locally available chiller overkill http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5490962082.html? could i do better for cheaper with a little looking?) Anyone who knows their stuff wanna give me 5-10 minutes to talk me through wants/needs? Please PM me and I'll get you a cell number.
I have a contractor currently working in the building who is a old plumber and very capable of running black iron pipes while he's here.

Black iron is fine (don't use galvanized) but price out the cost of a full install of iron by a pipe fitter and an alternate like copper, or what we used, aluminum. (Fastpipe by Rapidair) The fittings are expensive but EASY and fast and you have flexibility to move it all without calling the plumber back in.

DO NOT USE PVC.

You will need a particle filter between the tank and dryer.

You will need an (optional) coalescing oil filter after the dryer if you want to pipe clean air for things like an air nozzle for the spot remover station.

You should have an oil/water separator for the condensate to drain to from the compressor, tank, filters and dryer. (you can pipe these drains together with HDPE tubing from Home Depot...)

I would say go ahead and buy that Ingersoll dryer. Always buy MORE capacity than you need, if you add equipment the dryer will already keep up.

Start with fresh oil, filters and belts on the compressor. Track the hours and change when needed.

[ZooCity]

For pipe, consider regular old 3/4" copper and sharkbite/push fittings.   Available at any given home improvement store, readily available Ts, 90s, etc., very easy install and you can break it down and move it later if you like.  Just be sure to support the pipe well.  You might want to sweat your goosenecks but I'm actually going to try bending them with conduit bender.   Technically you shouldn't use thin wall Type M copper tubing for comp air but we've had no issue with it.   Buy Type L if in doubt.

The Rapid Air product is tight.  I used a grip of the flexy stuff for weird parts of the run in our current space.  You can also use PEX-Al-PEX for this, which is what the flexible rapid air product is.  Yes the fittings seem expensive but it's all cheap compared to muscling black iron together over a big run.  I highly recommend something with easy fittings unless you have access to a couple gorillas to put the black iron in for you.

My favorite would be what Dave/bimridder has- large diameter aluminum (like what Evo used).  Putting big pipe on your main loop is a great idea as it essentially gives you an extra holding tank up there.

[Stinkhorn Press]

My contractor is an old plumber and he had no problems fitting in 3/4" black iron from the chiller to the press (under 20') . Rubber lines between the compressor, the tank and the chiller.

Above the press, the drop is 1/2" rubber, but our press guy says it should be 3/4" rubber there too. This seems a little odd to me since the press is fed from there on a tiny line.

Ordered a new chiller from Schultz, was reasonably priced (as was advised by Tony's buddy who happens to rep them heh).

Everything is piped up (well, excepting all the in-line filter bits that I'll bolt on later).

The Kaeser gave us no end of fits getting it functioning properly - had two guys put their heads together for about 8 hours fighting with it, finally concluding that when the motor was re-wound, the (6) wires that run to and from it (3 for high voltage, 3 for lower voltage) were not put back properly and so the whole thing is being sent out again to have the motor re-wound/wired. What a nightmare.

A portable compressor got us enough air to get the press set up and tested, but it was borrowed and returned so I'm back to waiting till that compressor makes it's way back to me.

[Evo]

Above the press, the drop is 1/2" rubber, but our press guy says it should be 3/4" rubber there too. This seems a little odd to me since the press is fed from there on a tiny line.

Short lengths of too-small pipe or hose are often not an issue. You want to avoid entire runs or lengths of hose or pipe that is too small. This leads to pressure drops and over works the compressor.

The rule of thumb is "go big and straight". Install the biggest pipe you can afford and wherever you can place it. Avoid bends and 90 degree elbows wherever possible. (one 90 degree elbow is equiv to 25' of straight pipe) This will give you less restriction on air flow.

Also, looping the pipe from compressor and back and making drops to the tools and machines from the loop makes it to where you can place a small diameter pipe and still have minimal pressure drop.

Something to think about if/when you expand the system or add equipment. And you should ALWAYS account for expansion.

[ScreenFoo]

This could help quite a bit on those "How much air will this tiny hose carry" questions.

http://www.gates.com/catalogs-and-resources/resources/repository/calculator/air-flow-calculator

Just for S&G I put in .25" hose, 100 feet, 125 PSI at 10 SCFM, and that would lose 35 PSI--I could still run the press.
Why'd I put in this huge iron pipe anyway?   

(Just kidding, I'm agreeing with the advice here, overbuild it or you will likely suffer later)

[Evo]

This could help quite a bit on those "How much air will this tiny hose carry" questions.

http://www.gates.com/catalogs-and-resources/resources/repository/calculator/air-flow-calculator

Just for S&G I put in .25" hose, 100 feet, 125 PSI at 10 SCFM, and that would lose 35 PSI--I could still run the press.
Why'd I put in this huge iron pipe anyway?   

(Just kidding, I'm agreeing with the advice here, overbuild it or you will likely suffer later)

You can drive a car with your feet, but it's not the best idea.