Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
Just a quick follow up. I have received my meter and I checked few screens.110 wooden is @ 19 newtons155 aluminum is @ 21 newtons230 aluminum is @ 15 newtons
I'm looking at replacing my old Newman tension meter, it was manufactured in 1989. I've been looking at an alternative to the Newman (something a little less pricey). Anyone here using the Shur-Loc or Tetko meters or have any feedback on them?
Quote from: Orion on December 15, 2011, 02:38:02 PMI'm looking at replacing my old Newman tension meter, it was manufactured in 1989. I've been looking at an alternative to the Newman (something a little less pricey). Anyone here using the Shur-Loc or Tetko meters or have any feedback on them?Why do away with the "Cadillac" of meters? Why not just get your Newman refurbished if it's tired?
just to add here - I was a static guy, then went to all panelframes. they averaged 15 newtons, I think the highest panelframe was around 17. We were getting blurry prints around outlines and all sorts of issues. granted my press is not 100% perfect like the day it was made - I think we have it pretty damn close though, for being a '94 gauntlet. at the moment, I am stretching 15 brand new M3's up to 35-40 newton's. my white is whiter. My outlines are crisper. my reg is faster. my prints are way better. Higher quality mesh is helping too, I didn't really understand how crappy the mesh is on those panelframes. I'm not saying rollers are the end all -but for me and our goals - these are a great start to get spectacular prints. My thinking is, all the BIG shops use them - they did the R&D on it, they use them for a reason, learn from them. Let technology make your life easier. I can perform surgery with a dull butter knife but I would rather go with the laser. . .I I'll soon post up all my panelframes for sale once my collection of M3's grows. . .
And I can cook a steak with a blowtorch and a pair of tongs..
What is the cost to get totally set up with roller frames? I am talking the right amount of frames for a starting auto shop, the right mesh counts, the table and all the other whoopty woo that goes along with it. Oh and then how long does it take to get to the point where you really know what you are doing with them. I imagine switching to rollers is kinda the same as going from manual printing to auto printing. I am thinking you could easily be 10K deep when all is said and done. Am I far off? I am not arguing that they are better and they are an investment just wanting to know what is the investment and the learning curve.