Tension meter?

[Fresh Baked Printing]

Just a quick follow up. I have received my meter and I checked few screens.
110 wooden is @ 19 newtons
155 aluminum is @ 21 newtons
230 aluminum is @ 15 newtons

Are you getting decent prints and performance from those screens?

[Denis Kolar]

I'm pretty new to Screen Printing, and I had some issues with printing white before.
Last few tomes, white looks a tot better and it is smoother that before. I think a got a bit better at printing and also ordered triple duro squeegees (60/90/60) for white ink.
When I got more comfortable with setting up the screens on the press, with offcontact, coating and exposing screens I think that printing improved.

Now, when I learned some more about printing, I can say that I can not complain about the screens. Before when I new less than now, even the better screens would not help me a lot.  When I ordered meter, I was hoping not to see screens in the low teens.

[Orion]

I'm looking at replacing my old Newman tension meter, it was manufactured in 1989. I've been looking at an alternative to the Newman (something a little less pricey). Anyone here using the Shur-Loc or Tetko meters or have any feedback on them?

[Fresh Baked Printing]

I'm looking at replacing my old Newman tension meter, it was manufactured in 1989. I've been looking at an alternative to the Newman (something a little less pricey). Anyone here using the Shur-Loc or Tetko meters or have any feedback on them?

Why do away with the "Cadillac" of meters? Why not just get your Newman refurbished if it's tired?

[alan802]

I'm looking at replacing my old Newman tension meter, it was manufactured in 1989. I've been looking at an alternative to the Newman (something a little less pricey). Anyone here using the Shur-Loc or Tetko meters or have any feedback on them?

Why do away with the "Cadillac" of meters? Why not just get your Newman refurbished if it's tired?

I'd send it to newman and have them go over it and it will be as good as new for way less money than a new one, plus it will be better than some cheaper alternative.

[mk162]

chances are is was built better than most of them out there.  And probably in the USA.

[Orion]

Of course the meter is the "cadillac". This meter was recalibrated and recertified in June 2010. I'm primarily the only one that uses it. As far as I know it has been taken care of and not mishandled. Now the needle sticks, the feet and the plunger bar are loose. I don't want to spend the $90 to have it refurbed every 12-18 months.

[Homer]

just to add here - I was a static guy, then went to all panelframes. they averaged 15 newtons, I think the highest panelframe was around 17. We were getting blurry prints around outlines and all sorts of issues. granted my press is not 100% perfect like the day it was made - I think we have it pretty damn close though, for being a '94 gauntlet.  at the moment, I am stretching 15 brand new M3's up to 35-40 newton's. my white is whiter. My outlines are crisper. my reg is faster. my prints are way better. Higher quality mesh is helping too, I didn't really understand how crappy the mesh is on those panelframes. I'm not saying rollers are the end all -but for me and our goals - these are a great start to get spectacular prints. My thinking is, all the BIG shops use them - they did the R&D on it, they use them for a reason, learn from them. Let technology make your life easier. I can perform surgery with a dull butter knife but I would rather go with the laser. . .I I'll soon post up all my panelframes for sale once my collection of M3's grows. . .

[alan802]

just to add here - I was a static guy, then went to all panelframes. they averaged 15 newtons, I think the highest panelframe was around 17. We were getting blurry prints around outlines and all sorts of issues. granted my press is not 100% perfect like the day it was made - I think we have it pretty damn close though, for being a '94 gauntlet.  at the moment, I am stretching 15 brand new M3's up to 35-40 newton's. my white is whiter. My outlines are crisper. my reg is faster. my prints are way better. Higher quality mesh is helping too, I didn't really understand how crappy the mesh is on those panelframes. I'm not saying rollers are the end all -but for me and our goals - these are a great start to get spectacular prints. My thinking is, all the BIG shops use them - they did the R&D on it, they use them for a reason, learn from them. Let technology make your life easier. I can perform surgery with a dull butter knife but I would rather go with the laser. . .I I'll soon post up all my panelframes for sale once my collection of M3's grows. . .

Sounds like we have another convert, that's good to hear Homer.  I have been preaching the types of benefits we've seen with higher tensions and it looks like Homer is going to reap those same rewards.  Do us a favor and try and track how much faster your setup times are with the newmans.

[Orion]

Don Newman has decided my meter is too old and worn to have it recalibrated. The estimated life span of a well cared for meter is 15-18 years, mine made it 23 years. They are willing to give me a trade in value of about $70. Sounds like a fair deal, I just wish they would have told me this back in 2010, that would have saved me $90. Looks like I'm getting the new 1-E meter for Christmas.

[mk162]

that's pretty fair.

[ZooCity]

And I can cook a steak with a blowtorch and a pair of tongs.. 

Oh, you do that too? no way!

I agree with John on the 'plate' concept.  Trouble is, most screen printing equipment as well as the mesh, excepting the roller mesh, cannot consistently run day in day out at the tolerances necessary to take full advantage of this.  Don was just waaaaay far ahead of his time with the high tension concept.   Ultimately, once the tech is there to make stronger, thinner threads and if equipment is offered that can hold the tolerances, you could reap massive benefits from this and it could bring our printing method up into a higher level in the technical sense.   We just aren't there yet though.  It's mostly true that anything over 35-40n isn't worth bothering with unless you have high-end equipment that is religiously maintained.  The change from 14-22n over to 26-35 is a world of improvement however.

I also agree with Sonny in that good art makes good prints.  If you have some bad-ass artwork, you're stacking the deck for yourself.  Amazing prints are made diy everyday and it ain't the ink or the screens or the gear that made it so.  Look at artists like Aaron Horkey.  Dude is hand cutting rubylith and using opaqueing pens and having other dudes print up many of his designs on old American presses with static frames and speedball inks.  And they are effing gorgeous prints, sell for a high dollar and totally give me a screen printing boner.  Google it.

[tancehughes]

just to add here - I was a static guy, then went to all panelframes. they averaged 15 newtons, I think the highest panelframe was around 17. We were getting blurry prints around outlines and all sorts of issues. granted my press is not 100% perfect like the day it was made - I think we have it pretty damn close though, for being a '94 gauntlet.  at the moment, I am stretching 15 brand new M3's up to 35-40 newton's. my white is whiter. My outlines are crisper. my reg is faster. my prints are way better. Higher quality mesh is helping too, I didn't really understand how crappy the mesh is on those panelframes. I'm not saying rollers are the end all -but for me and our goals - these are a great start to get spectacular prints. My thinking is, all the BIG shops use them - they did the R&D on it, they use them for a reason, learn from them. Let technology make your life easier. I can perform surgery with a dull butter knife but I would rather go with the laser. . .I I'll soon post up all my panelframes for sale once my collection of M3's grows. . .

Good to hear that Homer, keep us updated on your progress. Show us some pictures of your work on roller frames!

[Prosperi-Tees]

What is the cost to get totally set up with roller frames? I am talking the right amount of frames for a starting auto shop, the right mesh counts, the table and all the other whoopty woo that goes along with it. Oh and then how long does it take to get to the point where you really know what you are doing with them. I imagine switching to rollers is kinda the same as going from manual printing to auto printing. I am thinking you could easily be 10K deep when all is said and done. Am I far off? I am not arguing that they are better and they are an investment just wanting to know what is the investment and the learning curve.

[Shanarchy]

What is the cost to get totally set up with roller frames? I am talking the right amount of frames for a starting auto shop, the right mesh counts, the table and all the other whoopty woo that goes along with it. Oh and then how long does it take to get to the point where you really know what you are doing with them. I imagine switching to rollers is kinda the same as going from manual printing to auto printing. I am thinking you could easily be 10K deep when all is said and done. Am I far off? I am not arguing that they are better and they are an investment just wanting to know what is the investment and the learning curve.

This isn't exactly the answer to your question, but you can get yourself started for under $1500.
tension meter: $300
tool kit: $325
12 MZX auto frames: $625 ($875 for M3's)
mesh for 12 screens: $60

a table is very nice, but not a must to start out.
keep in mind you can always find used frames to keep adding to your collection