How would you sep this?

[Prosperi-Tees]

Keep in mind I only have 158 and 230 mesh. The 230 mesh is kinda soft though, the 158s are tight.

[screenxpress]

if you're asking based on mesh and 230 being tops, it could be done, but not as well as with 305.  Could be bad news if the 230 is soft though.

Was that the question?

[Prosperi-Tees]

I guess the question would be what dpi on what mesh?

[Screened Gear]

The perfect situation     LPI X 4.5 = Mesh you should use (or higher)

"To be safe" I would print the orange under the black on the print. Do the orange with 156 and the black at 45 LPI on your brand new tight 230 mesh screen.

If the client is ok with larger dots (most are not) you can do the same thing but do the black on a 158 at 35 LPI (I never go under 40 LPI and I have done them on 156 mess and even on 123 when I was in a bind. (have to know your emultion, exposure unit and times to make it work.)

Hope this helps.

[Prosperi-Tees]

That does help, thanks

[screenxpress]

LPI to screen mesh is not really part of seping so I didn't know what you were looking for.

Unless the job is due in the morning, don't you have a supplier you can buy 2 280-305 mesh screens from in the morning?  They always come in handy for halftones.   

I always try to do what I need to to make the job look right vs. trying to shoehorn something to make it fit.  If no suppliers in your town, well, guess then you have to make do.

I only use my 156s for underbase and spot colors. 

[Prosperi-Tees]

I did 156 for the orange and 230 for the black, the black was a little overpowering but the print looks better than what the guy had from a printer thats been in business for 10+ years so I am happy but you are right I wish I had some higher mesh screens. This was done without a RIP, I use Advanced Artist Simple Seps.

[screenxpress]

I'll have to check out the Advanced Artist site.

In the meantime,

[prozyan]

I did 156 for the orange and 230 for the black, the black was a little overpowering. . .

Black halftones are often overpowering.  It is usually a good idea to pull them back in the artwork.  The amount you need to pull back depends on a lot of variables in your shop, but a little experimentation should allow you to dial it in.  I usually pull back about 15% on my shadings and gradients containing black.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Looks better in person, crappy cell pic but like was said I should have pulled back on the black.

[screenxpress]

I know it looks darker than you wanted, but will the custy be okay with the black under the bucket where it was gray in the top image?  Or is it just a really dark gray?

Are they all printed now?

[Prosperi-Tees]

Yeah it actually does look dark gray in person, the pic shows up to dark. The customers print before was just a halftone black, I asked if they wanted to add the gray and they said no the black would be fine.

[screenxpress]

k, I would have probably done that anyway - as a halftone.

[3Deep]

Hey Pro not bad..I know everyone was saying higher mesh 305,s, but you could have hit that dead on with the 230 screens...I,m thinking you pulled your gradients for your black to high and covered the orange to much...Oh the black at the bottom of that bucket you should have gave it a 25% fill of the black.  I,m no expert here just telling what I would have done and I like learning from these cats as much as the next guy.  Your print looks great and if your like me your allways looking to get better.

Darryl

[Prosperi-Tees]

I actually went thru 4 different screens until I settled on this print. I am very picky and my wife gets on me about that but I tell her thats what is gonna set us apart. We have to better than the print that walks thru the door from the "other" printer down the road and I will burn thru as many screens and films as it takes until I get it right. I have only been doing this for about 2 years and am self taught from reading, you tube videos, forums and trial and error and we always look for ways to get better. And I always look to you guys for input. Thanks