I need to cobble together small "hot box" for transfer paper

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

back to "cobbling". Just get a sheet of foam and cut pieces to fit in a nice cardboard box.

That said, I think that many of us agree that a bigger piece of the puzzle is the initial and immediate shrinkage and its added stability you'll achieve with a trip (or two) down the belt.

I may indeed be partly barking up the wrong tree here, Andy. Registration trouble is why I'm looking to build a hot box in the first place.

I'm self taught mostly, (Well that, and theshirtboard) so since I've never been around "best practices" in an established shop except Kitson's for a workshop, I know I'm still making occasional basic boo-boos. Trial and error are the order of the day many times. (For most of us, I suspect)

I built my own vacuum platen which fits on my manual. My homemade "stop tabs" are in question at this point, as is my general expectation of what can be achieved on paper, I reckon. And....I'm new to multi color transfers.

I can shrink a piece of paper,  (twice) walk it from the end of the belt right back to the press and print the first pass. Immediately back in the tunnel, and immediately back to the press. Unless it's pouring down rain outside, I oughta be able to hit that 2nd pass, dot on dot. Right?!?  Same plate, same squeegee, same printing technique.

Am I just expecting too much?

I printed some one color transfers today for stretchy headbands. With all the stretch additive, the ink was a little translucent through a 110, so I printed the papers twice as described above. The tiny (Registered)  "R" with the circle around it was egg shaped after the 2nd pass. They were okay, but I didn't like it.  They were .259" in diameter. I tried several times, and they all looked pretty much alike.  So I figured it wasn't my loading technique or the stop tabs.

[mooseman]

I really like to come up with workarounds trying hard sometimes on doing things differently, I know most of you are surprised .

I do not print transfers but what little i know about this process and paper in general is paper and moisture like to combine and paper always is the weaker member of that association. Additionally paper by virture of the paper making process has a grain of sorts just from the way the stock is deposited on the paper making machinery.

So how to stabilize the paper.........this hit me from something we do in our embroidery work.

We buy embroidery backing by 100 yard roll. When the roll gets down to less than 50% the curvature of the roll gets to be a PITA as the pieces we cut for our work hold that curl. It gets way worse as the roll gets smaller.  We elininate this curl simply by placing a stack of cut squares about 1 inch thick in my heat press at about 250 degrees for about 15 minutes under medium pressure of the platten.
the result is an extremely flat and very dry piece of backing material that is very nice to work with when hooping

From this I get two experiments (ideas) I woud try if I ever print transfers.

First i would put a stack of transfer paper in my heat press. let the heat and pressure modify the paper's relative condition just like the embroidery backing is modified.
Secondly just for "shirts and grins" I would try using a piece of embroidery backing as the transfer paper. The ink may not transfer but who really knows. Think about it if you are test printing on test pellons you are already printing ink on embroidery backing
the backing is a multidirectional weave unlike paper which has a grain and backing  is extremely stable in all directions just try tearing or stretching a piece of it. Additionally the better stuff is treated with additives and coatings that enhance the material performance .

And if you have ever printed on a pellon you know how NICE the material prints.
moose-on-the-loose
 

[starchild]

How about a restaurant food warmer?

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[Frog]

How about a restaurant food warmer?

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Here's another option for the "box" itself
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/choice-18-x-18-x-5-vinyl-insulated-pizza-delivery-bag/124PIBAG2VNL.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKEAiA2ve0BRDCgqDtmYXlyjkSJACEPmdwigmpyGBdSV62JAGwBR1AYcuoA2edyxMT4tR8r5tl1hoCjQbw_wcB

[larryk]

Stan..... it sounds to me like you have your paper shrinkage problem dialed in and now you need to get your registration figured out. It takes a lot of practice to be able to place that paper exact every time...... Here is a suggestion for alignment on your vacuum table.  I know you have a plotter so first cut 2 strips of your thickest vinyl you have 1" X 15".....  place the first strip going horizontal near the top of your table where the top of the paper will be.... place the second strip to the left side of the first strip at a 90 degree angle... so it looks like a framing square... be precise with this. If you are using a foot switch to turn on your vacuum make sure to hold your paper until it is sucked firmly to the table.... look it over and make sure the paper is where it should be before you print it..... and just like everything else.... Practice Practice Practice.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Stan..... it sounds to me like you have your paper shrinkage problem dialed in and now you need to get your registration figured out. It takes a lot of practice to be able to place that paper exact every time...... Here is a suggestion for alignment on your vacuum table.  I know you have a plotter so first cut 2 strips of your thickest vinyl you have 1" X 15".....  place the first strip going horizontal near the top of your table where the top of the paper will be.... place the second strip to the left side of the first strip at a 90 degree angle... so it looks like a framing square... be precise with this. If you are using a foot switch to turn on your vacuum make sure to hold your paper until it is sucked firmly to the table.... look it over and make sure the paper is where it should be before you print it..... and just like everything else.... Practice Practice Practice.

I will try this. Thanks Larry. I've heard of thick vinyl being utilized for this purpose before. I have some paint mask that can be plotter cut. It will release easy too!

And Frog, I still haven't given up on heating a small box lined with styrofoam.

And Moose, I question the consistency the heat press idea would yield, but your idea is noted in the ever less reliable gray area of my cranium.

I'll look up restaurant food warmers too.

I am aware how heating the air in the winter with a furnace, simply expands the available moisture until the relative humidity is effectively reduced. I kinda get that.

I'm just not sure how moisture content would actually be effected in an air tight container by adding heat, no matter which temperature range I manage to achieve. This concept is foggy in my mind. I can see how if the container is partly OPEN, how adding a CONTROLLED, heated air flow might maintain, or even further reduce moisture content.

Thanks guys!

[mimosatexas]

Heat press is a bad idea. The paper will warp oddly in my experience. Yrmv of course

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I did find something cheap enough to be interesting at Bed Bath and Beyond.

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/1/1/40261-nostalgia-electrics-nonstick-electric-griddle-warming-tray.html


I might be able to start here, and wind up with an enclosure that could be opened if needed.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Double Post, sorry. Why can't I remember how to delete a boo boo?

[Frog]

From the same place, way cooler!
Not as small, but the wheels make it easily movable, and there's plenty of room for other related items.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Great! After I finally give up screenprinting, I can keep the cart and sell weenies! In the hot sun even.