"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
And I'm also going to need to do more testing with exposure time and EOM and keep close track of my results... at the end i'll at the very least have a much better understanding of the finest details.Now I just need to get myself an EOM gauge... any suggestions?
Quote from: Maff on January 27, 2016, 01:32:50 PMAnd I'm also going to need to do more testing with exposure time and EOM and keep close track of my results... at the end i'll at the very least have a much better understanding of the finest details.Now I just need to get myself an EOM gauge... any suggestions?I use one of these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CEM-DT-156-Paint-Coating-Thickness-Gauge-Tester-F-NF-Probes-1250-Im-/221993822236?hash=item33afdce81c:g:a18AAOxy4dNSxTRBfor my emulsion testing, I use the following document:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bsqE6POiBiCCztbQZlCZIOG_TlYNbZRtJ6_x7aTcShI/edit?usp=sharing
Quote from: blue moon on January 27, 2016, 12:56:51 PMQuote from: Maff on January 27, 2016, 12:51:01 PMQuote from: blue moon on January 27, 2016, 12:23:31 PMif you coat the T and S the same, S will have almost twice the thickness of the emulsion and you will have to increase your exposure times. Keep burning until there is no slime on the other side.pierreRight. Usually we would coat 1x1 with the round side. We have been trying 1x1 sharp side on 150s with slightly better results but still getting some slime. But we did also try increasing our exposure, in our initially test we doubled our exposure times and still getting some slime. Maybe the screens weren't dry enough? we try to give them a good day of dry time after coat. Although we have our screens in a decently controlled environment I've noticed they are still affected by our weather... if it's super hot and humid in the summer we were fighting to keep the humidity down in the screen booth and also since it's been a lot colder we recently bumped up the heat... There was another topic recently discussing the colder weather and exposure times.It all made me wonder if the s-mesh are just more sensitive... or am I just realizing that screen making in general needs to be more precise and conscious part of the process... everything with our Tmesh was easy... rarely any issues.how long are your exposure times? I would expect a 3min +, possibly 5 with an 850W and 150S.pierreThanks everyone,Piere, No we're much less. With PHU we've been under a minute... but our T-mesh hits a solid 7 on the Stauffer strip every time. Could the layer of emulsion be that much thicker on a S-Mesh? twice as much? Like 150s vs 156t for example... Also, what do you think about abrading s-mesh... anybody else doing that?
Quote from: Maff on January 27, 2016, 12:51:01 PMQuote from: blue moon on January 27, 2016, 12:23:31 PMif you coat the T and S the same, S will have almost twice the thickness of the emulsion and you will have to increase your exposure times. Keep burning until there is no slime on the other side.pierreRight. Usually we would coat 1x1 with the round side. We have been trying 1x1 sharp side on 150s with slightly better results but still getting some slime. But we did also try increasing our exposure, in our initially test we doubled our exposure times and still getting some slime. Maybe the screens weren't dry enough? we try to give them a good day of dry time after coat. Although we have our screens in a decently controlled environment I've noticed they are still affected by our weather... if it's super hot and humid in the summer we were fighting to keep the humidity down in the screen booth and also since it's been a lot colder we recently bumped up the heat... There was another topic recently discussing the colder weather and exposure times.It all made me wonder if the s-mesh are just more sensitive... or am I just realizing that screen making in general needs to be more precise and conscious part of the process... everything with our Tmesh was easy... rarely any issues.how long are your exposure times? I would expect a 3min +, possibly 5 with an 850W and 150S.pierre
Quote from: blue moon on January 27, 2016, 12:23:31 PMif you coat the T and S the same, S will have almost twice the thickness of the emulsion and you will have to increase your exposure times. Keep burning until there is no slime on the other side.pierreRight. Usually we would coat 1x1 with the round side. We have been trying 1x1 sharp side on 150s with slightly better results but still getting some slime. But we did also try increasing our exposure, in our initially test we doubled our exposure times and still getting some slime. Maybe the screens weren't dry enough? we try to give them a good day of dry time after coat. Although we have our screens in a decently controlled environment I've noticed they are still affected by our weather... if it's super hot and humid in the summer we were fighting to keep the humidity down in the screen booth and also since it's been a lot colder we recently bumped up the heat... There was another topic recently discussing the colder weather and exposure times.It all made me wonder if the s-mesh are just more sensitive... or am I just realizing that screen making in general needs to be more precise and conscious part of the process... everything with our Tmesh was easy... rarely any issues.
if you coat the T and S the same, S will have almost twice the thickness of the emulsion and you will have to increase your exposure times. Keep burning until there is no slime on the other side.pierre
Just a guick question, I haven't seen it brought up yet.Is your T-mesh white or yellow?Is your S-mesh white or yellow?Just asking bc this will change times as well.I agree with Pierre, coating S-mesh the same as T-mesh will give you almost twice as much EOM on the S over the T.I have not done any abrading on mesh in over ten years. We typically just put them into shorter runs for the first few uses, and this is efficient work hardening for our mesh, S or T.Our S-mesh burns for twice as long as our T-mesh, but it is also white vs yellow.Murphy
with the next batch of screens I get in I'm going to use direct prep 1 on just a couple and see if it makes any noticeable difference.
Quote from: Maff on January 28, 2016, 03:07:56 PMwith the next batch of screens I get in I'm going to use direct prep 1 on just a couple and see if it makes any noticeable difference. We may still still need to figure out if all of that product's ingredients' effects are what changed your results, or just the detergent, the wetting agent, or the abrader
http://www.saati.com/images/chemicals/products/direct-prep-1.pdf
Quote from: Frog on January 28, 2016, 04:02:45 PMQuote from: Maff on January 28, 2016, 03:07:56 PMwith the next batch of screens I get in I'm going to use direct prep 1 on just a couple and see if it makes any noticeable difference. We may still still need to figure out if all of that product's ingredients' effects are what changed your results, or just the detergent, the wetting agent, or the abraderTrue, that would skew the test results... But aren't most abraders also degreasers anyways? Either way... I have already been using the Direct Prep-2 and haven't seen any significant changes in my situation.
True, that would skew the test results... But aren't most abraders also degreasers anyways?