Free download for the halftone test file.

[Dottonedan]

I've attached a test file for you to print to your screen mesh. This helps you determine if your exposure is correct enough to hold fine detail on the mesh you want to use.
To determine a good halftone count for the mesh needed, take the mesh number and divide by 4.5   Example. 200 mesh divided by 4.5 = 44.4 rounded to 45 lpi. This would be the highest lpi you would want to use. Anything higher will make the small dots too small and will be blocked by your mesh threads causing that saw toothed speckled pattern. A common goal should be to hold at least down to the 5% dots and lower if possible. Some people might say to divide your mesh by 4 or even 5 but one of those three will help you.  I myself, prefer to use 5 for general halftone printing.
I will be posting another test file here soon.

Download the test file here.

https://www.hightail.com/download/ZWJYYkJ2YWJtMEpqQThUQw

[Doug S]

Thanks for posting it up.  I'm going to give it a shot.

[Maff]

Thanks for the test files!!

How does S-Mesh compare to regular mesh in its ability to hold smaller dots at a higher LPI?  Since there is more open area in S-Mesh, would there be less thread in the way to block the smallest dots?
Like for example 225s vs 230t

Thanks again!

[jvanick]

I think the bigger question with the smaller dots and more open area means that the smallest dots can literally fall in the middle of the mesh.

That being said.. the detail you can hold on the 225S and other thin thread screens is amazing and much much better than T thread

[Dottonedan]

I noticed I will have to go back into that file and combine several blacks. I used a process black, and two different spot blacks causing 3 different seps.  Oops. :)

It stands to reasons that with any mesh, the smaller the thread, the better the open area but that's not always the case. You can have very thin threads but need (more of them) to maintain a certain level of durability/strength.  S mesh seems to have a good handle on this with a new type of thread (I assume). It's a tad stronger than others, therefore requiring less of them.

More open area means more information. I've heard some crazy high lpi being used on what used to be known as low mesh.  How well that actually comes out on the shirt (I haven't seen yet) but I believe the S mesh to be able to provide much more live area to hold small dots and/or more image. After all, It's not the emulsion that blocks small dots as much as it mesh threads. Decrease the mesh thread interference and you have more open area, more open area = more transferable image.

There are various formulations of emulsions that enable you to hold more detail/edge definition, longer production runs etc, but in general, if you take out the mesh, all emulsions will hold/expose extremely small dots like 1% in a 100lpi, if coated properly but you need something to support it such as mesh thread.

[jvanick]

I've been getting some very nice 85lpi results on 225S.. have to work.on my 30% and above calibration...  (thanks to Pierre for pointing this out) but the mesh certainly holds the dots all the way down to some really low #s.

Give it a try, you'll be surprised that the normal rules don't seem to apply with thin thread mesh.

[Dottonedan]

I've been getting some very nice 85lpi results on 225S.. have to work.on my 30% and above calibration...  (thanks to Pierre for pointing this out) but the mesh certainly holds the dots all the way down to some really low #s.

Give it a try, you'll be surprised that the normal rules don't seem to apply with thin thread mesh.

That's what I'm talking about. 85 lpi on a 225?  Crazy good.

[Maff]

I think the bigger question with the smaller dots and more open area means that the smallest dots can literally fall in the middle of the mesh.

ahhh right, so those areas that are mostly black (90% and up) will get lost more easily with more open mesh area since there is nothing to hold on to. I guess you could go in and adjust the curves to bring the darkest areas of the design down a bit.

Yeah I have just started using S-mesh and finding the 225s to be great for white uderbase halftone screens and have been pushing the LPI higher on them than I would previously. 

[JBLUE]

55 LPI here on 180-S with no issues.