workhorse manual

[Clark]

I printed on one for 5 years.  It's not an Antec, and after printing on an Antec, I would never buy another workhorse manual.  Just not in the same league.

[ebscreen]

I have a couple side clamps for workhorse presses if anyone is interested.
Bought them to be able to use my auto screens on my manual, then promptly
removed them. You pretty much need the features of a Chameleon to make side
clamps user friendly.

Workhorse' are good solid presses.

[Shawn (EIP)]

If I read it correctly side clamps for the workhorse are only 200 bucks a head (maybe that's just for an upgrade) but I cant find any pics of what they look like?

[ebscreen]

Like a Rototex.

For $200 you can have 4 of mine.

You will need a second set or beefier springs.

[Shawn (EIP)]

Like a Rototex.

For $200 you can have 4 of mine.

You will need a second set or beefier springs.

Can you email me pics?  endlessink@gmail.com

[Gabe]

you guys are making me change my perspetive toward back clamps
i screen printed only on side clamps manual presses but after this discussion it makes sense
using back clamps with aluminum screens having said that
don`t  mean to break the thread
what would be the right tension in newtons to achieve butt to butt reggies in manual machines?

[Frog]

I can't give you numbers,. but I can assure you that average decent quality static frames are perfectly capable of running butt registered jobs.
Along with looser mesh, problems can arise when too mush squeegee pressure is used which shifts the mesh too much and inconsistently.

I'm running panel frames as much as possible now, but still have older statics in my rotation which don't give me problems. In fact, I just finished a butt registered two color rush job of 15 pieces using one new 180 panel for the fill of 2" varsity text, and an old 110 static for a one hit white outline.

btw, there were three sets of different color fills, and yes, I was duly compensated for the small quantity, color changes, and rush. Don't worry about the Frog. 

[Evo]

what would be the right tension in newtons to achieve butt to butt reggies in manual machines?

The formula for the right tension in newtons for any frame is simple:

Maximum tension the mesh (and frame) can handle
minus
Your patience and diligence maintaining said tension

[Screened Gear]

"what would be the right tension in Newton’s to achieve butt to butt reggies in manual machines?"

I don't use high tension screens. (Newman’s or panels) I use static aluminum on my Workhorse 6/6. I have always done butt registration. Most of my screens are in the 20n to 25n range. I have some manual screens that are 15 to 18. I know I am going to get killed buy the HIGH TENSION ONLY GUYS on here. With low tension screens the biggest difference you see is that the screen can move with the squeegee just a hair. If all your screens are in the same range (Newtons of tension) this movement will not make the design out of registration because all the screens move that hair. There is a lot more that plays into it but if your tension is at least...say 18n you can do but registration on a good press with out many problems. If you can't then I am doing the impossible every day.

[screenxpress]

I've got a Newman ST-1E meter and just measured 6 of my 20 x 24 aluminum statics and the very BEST was 18 by 18.  Most were below 15 by 15 (actually 13 by 13). 

I then measured a few 20 x 24 wood frames and found ONE that was over 20 by 20.  The rest were below 15 by 15

I am curious where you are getting static screens that measure 25 newtons or even a solid 20.....with consistency.

I'm not too concerned for myself though as I've got 15 - 18 MZX Rollers that I'm going to start meshing and using.

[Screened Gear]

I have got many of them locally. I have alot at 20 a few just over that. I got some autos from Sonny that are in the 18 to 20 range they have been doing really good.  Most of the time I get them they are 18 to 22.

[Shawn (EIP)]

Like a Rototex.

For $200 you can have 4 of mine.

You will need a second set or beefier springs.

I'm ready to buy these off you, can you contact me through email? endlessink@gmail.com

[Shawn (EIP)]

Picked up my Workhorse 6/6 today. It's going to be a project for a few months to clean off the spray tack, new paint job and some adjustments to get back into all heads down. Luckily its the newer model with the spring covers.

Going to be looking for a some brackets if anyone has any?

[Printhouse]

My 8/8 was horribly dirty when I got it.  I took every part off of it and cleaned the base, regreased the bearings and re assembled it.  I then took one head at a time off, took them apart, cleaned them and even bead blasted some parts of them.  The heads I have done look like new.  For the money I have in this press I am pumped.

[Shawn (EIP)]

I think they could have used thicker gauge steel for the arms that didnt indent underneath from the brackets, other than that seems very solid. Can't wait to get her looking like new and back into production.