"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
I just can't wrap my head around spending $20k today to save $3 a shirt tomorrow.For someone that doesn't have a CTS yet I'd think that $20k would serve them better by buying one of those or something.One way to think of it is, would you buy an embroidery machine for $20,000 if it only made you $3 per garment?
My only concerns on ink cost is that it always seems that the M&R shirts are erring on the side of a darker print (on a dark shirt)... this means it's laying down less ink.What if you took a 4"x4" square of straight white. How would that compare?What about something like CMYK 4 block grid on a royal blue shirt... how would that compare. I'm just curious about getting full coverage before we really start comparing ink costs. If the print isn't 1:1 then it's hard to really say one is less or more than another. It's almost like comparing two different designs at that point.
I've always said they were equally wrong vs the original artwork. No winner, both have a flaw that I am "perceiving".I'm only saying that M&R might be erring on the side of less ink. Maybe this is why those prints differ... Brother is more in the market of selling ink as we all know, so maybe they want you to use up ink. More ink = "better print" and also more money in their pocket. That's a win win for them since no one is doing what you are doing typically.The big square of white is essentially like printing the half tone test on film and then having it tested with a densometer to make sure you are getting 50% dots where you are supposed to and such. This would mean that you are sure that when it is laying down a solid block of white ink or yellow ink or whatever, it would be a way to dial up or back the ink to make sure you are laying down the right amount vs too much or too little. One is important to the client and one is important to your bottom line.This entire thread is poised to be a great academic discussion on how these guys work in a more side by side comparison than probably anyone else has done. That is why I would be running seemingly unimportant test.It's like a nozzle check, you never print such a thing but you use it to make sure you are getting the best image you can get and aren't short changing a customer or are running handicapped.
Well, he's saying that he should be seeing larger savings so that makes it make more sense.My theory is you have to look at if it was a machine that you bought that would make you $3/shirt would you buy it?Obviously, the math works for many shops... so time will tell. I'd still like to see the settings tweaked to get the prints closer to 1:1 so we can compare more apples to apples when it comes to ink cost. As said, if the prints aren't coming out the same then you might as well be comparing two different designs entirely.
How has the hand been on the prints?Have you done any washes yet or waiting to get it dialed in more?
Well, you would be wrong. I have no desire to be argumenative, only to see the numbers compared as close to 1:1 as can be... that way everyone benefits by seeing which is best for them.Even if it is "only $3" then for a shop that is only putting out 50 shirts a week it might not make as much sense. You can do better math if you have better knowledge.I "turned $4 into $3" because I was talking about an AVERAGE print.... average for the average person, not average for your shop. As you know, you have to do what is best for YOUR shop. Same for anyone. So seeing numbers based on larger prints when another shop might not do that large of a print typically isn't working for them. We send out for DTG and we had a descent sized order that wanted to explore DTG options and they asked for 9x9 and 12x12 quotes. Nothing larger.I understand that isn't your clientele and that's super awesome that you get to print larger stuff... we push for cooler stuff all the time. Not everyone is down to push boundaries sadly.I want an academic DISCUSSION on all the numbers here, I'd rather not see a single argument on here.