"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
Who you gonna call?Pierre
Quote from: blue moon on December 10, 2015, 08:38:57 AMWho you gonna call?PierreI don't think, I will call the Ghost busters.I believe the mesh is "Force Sensitive" (sorry, just been waiting for the Star Wars movie for the past few months).I have given up on the path of extreme high tension. I now stretch all my thin thread to 20N then tighten the nuts and the tension will go up to around 25. No problem ever since. I retention before applying mesh prep.
oops. Sorry. proper name is Degrease... I use "Macdermid Mesh-Prep" for my halftone work.http://www.macdermidautotype.com/products/70-universal_mesh_prep
Whew, I was afraid that you meant the abraders from the days of old. They would be deadly on these thin-threaded meshes!
Try dropping the tension 1-2 newtons in the narrow direction of the screen. The location of the rip could have been caused by a medium sized squeegee that did not have the corners rounded off. Also avoid having the squeegee wider than the pallet you print on, probably not the case, but it just crushes the threads and wears them out over the edge of a pallet. Lower tension slightly overall. Avoid putting S mesh in the sun for too long, especially in summer, the expansion of the frame can raise tension as well.Soft brushes, or sponges to apply chems. Softened plastic goop scoops or softer plastic cards. Move up to 200S, or 225S for a stonger screen.Al
I had a screen pop the other day that had been sitting coated undisturbed for probably a month. Then all of a sudden, POP!! It happened when I was in the screen room coating screens. Startled me so much I dropped the coater, emulsion all over the floor, also dropped the screen I was coating, landed on the coater and popped that screen too!