oh my transfers have become easy

[Orion]

If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.

[Gilligan]

If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.

That is a question I've always had myself.

No matter which transfer system/powder you use it's the same thing.

[aauusa]

If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.

it sticks to it just fine.  I am printing some transfers this morning so I will do a video of the process.

[BorisB]

If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.

That is a question I've always had myself.

No matter which transfer system/powder you use it's the same thing.

If you send it to the dryer set for full cure, ink will bond with adhesive. Just as with T-shirts. Flashed and wet ink bond with fabric.

[Rocky Bihl]

This adhesive powder and technique was developed to allow transfer printers to make successful transfers for 100% polyester garments. The newly designed transfer powder that we call our "Transfer System Powder" (we do sell regular adhesive powder so be precise if wanting to try!!) is the key to this technique. Other types of transfer powders will not have the correct melt temp, bleed resistance or the holding power to withstand multiple washing/drying cycles. This technique does work with most ink series we sell, but if you are printing on heavily textured or mesh type polyester material and want LONG TERM BLEED RESISTANCE, a true poly ink like our Bravo Flex series will give the best results. We also sell paper specifically designed to be dimensionally stable if running multi-color designs.  A design printed with our Bravo Flex series on this paper,,, coated with our Transfer System Powder,,, fully cured in dryer,,, heat pressed@ 275F for 13 seconds yields  a very supple, bleed resistant, durable transfer.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Does anyone besides me have difficulty in getting the excess adhesive powder off the non printed parts of the transfer?

I called a little while ago and Rocky relayed through my sales rep some possible fixes for this problem: Making sure the paper is dry (and shrunk) with a trip through the dryer prior to printing, Vertically tapping the paper on some hard surface, or Compressed air.

That excess adhesive WILL spoil shirts the way I do it.

It may well be a humidity or static electricity problem. I have not tried the air nozzle, but I NEED to fix this issue.

[aauusa]

I have had some of the same issue and what we have done is tap the paper vertically oir air hose both work.  But if you do have some of the powder left and it does get that shie effect on the shirt where there should have been none the we have found by reheating the finished shirt under the press without the transfer paper and just using a teflon sheet the glue/powder will disappear most time.  you can also use a little letter off to get the remaining out very easily.

[3Deep]

We have the same problem with using transfer powder as well and what I've started doing was taken my finger and rubbing the spot's where the unwanted powder is, takes a little longer but it saves the garment.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Darryl, do you mean rubbing the GARMENT after heat pressing? Or rubbing the powder off the paper with your finger.

@ aauusa, I've not heard the term "letter off" before today. Do you mean spot cleaning solution through a spot cleaning gun...like Methylene Chloride or Tex Out?

[3Deep]

@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem

[Frog]

@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem

a soft paint or make-up brush is good for this, and also less likely to mess up the ink if the powder is close.

[aauusa]

we get ours from sun belt lettering  just dab a little on a cloth a rub   Methylene Chloride

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem

a soft paint or make-up brush is good for this, and also less likely to mess up the ink if the powder is close.

[/color]

Frog, do you use the soft brush you are describing before the oven? I think the powder is kinda hard to remove AFTER the curing process.

[Frog]

@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem

a soft paint or make-up brush is good for this, and also less likely to mess up the ink if the powder is close.

[/color]

Frog, do you use the soft brush you are describing before the oven? I think the powder is kinda hard to remove AFTER the curing process.

Yeah you're right, it sort of bakes on so when I have done it it was before curing that's after a shake after a blow and all that stuff. It's that damn static electricity sometimes that just makes it stick even before it's baked on.
I guess 3deeps technique catches the stuff that's still there


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