Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
yesterday, I tried shimming the screens about 1/8" 'higher' than the glass would have been (but left the glass out as I have my homemade cts conversion kit on my starlight)interestingly enough, the times changed a touch, but more importantly, the stouffer strip results and resulting screens seem better... I need a few days of HSA and discharge jobs before I'll be willing to say that my old problems are licked, but I'm guessing that I was a fraction of an inch too close to the LEDs.I cut up some various sets of blocks in 1/16" increments so I can play with the screen height a bit more... I'm shooting a halftone grid on the edge of the screens where I can, and I haven't noticed any differences in the halftones when looking with a loupe.
I can assure you the placement of the LED grid is correct where it's at. Many hours of engineering went in the placement. By shimming the glass and raising the height of the screen it will still work but slower. We make a conversion rack to eliminate the glass and it places the screen exactly where it belongs from the grid. Just a FYI.
Quote from: 244 on November 03, 2015, 10:15:55 AMI can assure you the placement of the LED grid is correct where it's at. Many hours of engineering went in the placement. By shimming the glass and raising the height of the screen it will still work but slower. We make a conversion rack to eliminate the glass and it places the screen exactly where it belongs from the grid. Just a FYI. it's on my list of things to purchase...However... I'm still wondering tho on the 'slower' is better... it just seems like the people who are posting the best results with WB work are the ones that are still using glass in their units... which of course slows down the exposure, which in turn gives more chance of curing all the way through the stencil.
Quote from: jvanick on November 03, 2015, 10:19:25 AMQuote from: 244 on November 03, 2015, 10:15:55 AMI can assure you the placement of the LED grid is correct where it's at. Many hours of engineering went in the placement. By shimming the glass and raising the height of the screen it will still work but slower. We make a conversion rack to eliminate the glass and it places the screen exactly where it belongs from the grid. Just a FYI. it's on my list of things to purchase...However... I'm still wondering tho on the 'slower' is better... it just seems like the people who are posting the best results with WB work are the ones that are still using glass in their units... which of course slows down the exposure, which in turn gives more chance of curing all the way through the stencil.Reading this was kind of funny in a way, most of you bought the LED units for it's speed of exposing screens I think at least that was what it seemed like when you all first started buying this unit, now slower is better? might as well have kept what you had or have unless the electric savings over time is a big factor.