"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
Hey folksLooking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of? Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?
Quote from: LoneWolf2 on September 18, 2015, 11:21:16 AMHey folksLooking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of? Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?As mentioned -- no plastisol/silicone combo! And the silicone is GREAT for smooth poly, it does not mat fibers down well at all -- so the triblends will probably be a struggle. Smoothing screens and such that are useful in plastisol do not work in silicone chemistry.take a read f the tech sheet here - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf
Rob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?
Quote from: pwalsh on September 18, 2015, 03:20:08 PMRob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short! The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface. A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white. Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen. An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well. In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray. You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray
Quote from: Rob Coleman on September 18, 2015, 04:27:34 PMQuote from: pwalsh on September 18, 2015, 03:20:08 PMRob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short! The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface. A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white. Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen. An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well. In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray. You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-GrayDont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
Dont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
Quote from: Rob Coleman on September 18, 2015, 04:27:34 PMQuote from: pwalsh on September 18, 2015, 03:20:08 PMRob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short! The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface. A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white. Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen. An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well. In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray. You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-GrayNow this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
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Topic: Silicone inks question (Read 2280 times)
