Author Topic: Silicone inks question  (Read 2266 times)

Offline LoneWolf2

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Silicone inks question
« on: September 18, 2015, 11:21:16 AM »
Hey folks
Looking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.
Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of?
Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?


Offline jvanick

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2015, 11:24:36 AM »
Plastisol won't stick to silicone.

Furthermore, if you contaminate silicone with plastisol it won't cure.

Offline Croft

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2015, 12:24:41 PM »
I use the white alot  works great on stretchy or hard to print fabrics , only have had one colour mixed , it was a light green and wasn't very opaque so we under based with the white silicone.

Offline Rob Coleman

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2015, 01:57:14 PM »
Hey folks
Looking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.
Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of?
Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?

As mentioned -- no plastisol/silicone combo!  And the silicone is GREAT for smooth poly, it does not mat fibers down well at all -- so the triblends will probably be a struggle.  Smoothing screens and such that are useful in plastisol do not work in silicone chemistry.

take a read f the tech sheet here - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf
Rob Coleman | Vice President
Textile Business Unit | Nazdar SourceOne | sourceone.nazdar.com
(800) 677-4657 ext. 3708 | Cell (678) 230-4463
rcoleman@nazdar.com

Offline pwalsh

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2015, 03:20:08 PM »
Hey folks
Looking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.
Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of?
Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?

As mentioned -- no plastisol/silicone combo!  And the silicone is GREAT for smooth poly, it does not mat fibers down well at all -- so the triblends will probably be a struggle.  Smoothing screens and such that are useful in plastisol do not work in silicone chemistry.

take a read f the tech sheet here - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf

Rob:  If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?
Peter G. Walsh - Executive Vice President
The M&R Companies - Roselle, IL USA
Email:  peter.walsh@mrprint.com
Office 847-410-3445 / Cell 913-579-6662

Offline Rob Coleman

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2015, 04:27:34 PM »
Rob:  If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?

I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short!   :o

The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface. 

A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white.  Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen.  An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well.  In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray.   You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray
Rob Coleman | Vice President
Textile Business Unit | Nazdar SourceOne | sourceone.nazdar.com
(800) 677-4657 ext. 3708 | Cell (678) 230-4463
rcoleman@nazdar.com

Offline JBLUE

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2015, 08:16:38 PM »
Rob:  If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?

I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short!   :o

The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface. 

A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white.  Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen.  An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well.  In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray.   You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray

Dont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
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Offline ericheartsu

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2015, 08:26:19 PM »
Rob:  If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?

I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short!   :o

The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface. 

A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white.  Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen.  An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well.  In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray.   You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray

Dont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.

we like to do HSA whites. That works great on triblends!
Night Owls
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www.nightowlsprint.com 281.741.7285

Offline jsheridan

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2015, 09:26:00 PM »


Dont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.

Right here folks.. I worked with Jason for awhile and he's spot on. His custy's are some of the crankiest I've ever met and he has them walking away with a smile on their faces. S threads, 85% flashing temps, controlled dryer temp/speed.

We got to run some Silicone on some nasty bleeding compression t's that came out awesome!
Blacktop Graphics Screenprinting and Consulting Services

Offline Underbase37

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #9 on: September 21, 2015, 10:19:18 AM »


Rob:  If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?

I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short!   :o

The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface. 

A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white.  Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen.  An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well.  In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray.   You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray

Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.

No doubt. What is up with these things? Just the solid blacks,  all the other colors seem to print  beautiful..... Side note, what's up with all the yellow going into dyes these days?

Murphy37


Offline srabadan

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Re: Silicone inks question
« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2015, 02:56:12 PM »
Our domestic operation just switched to PVC free. Before the switch we were big fans of the Rutland Endurance inks for blocking dye in poly or blended fabrics. It stopped the bleeding almost entirely, and we had some terrible shirts to print on.

Not sure how it will handle your fibrillation problem but both the grey and the white left a fantastic finish. Good luck!