Need 2 direct print Adidas 92% Poly Blends that ALREADY have Vinyl Heat Press #s

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

And of course, they are bleeders, and two sets of the jerseys get White Ink. But I'm more concerned about outgassing and bubbling of the first of two layers of already heat pressed player numbers.

I tested a "dud" and got some bubbling at 330°, but none at 305°. (As measured on my electric conveyer with an infra-red temp gun right under the last heat panel)

Piece count is small, say 50 to 60 max. So I thought about just laying a folded cotton tee on top of the numbers I want to protect, and trying to keep the sleeves I'm printing at 300 to 310 on the way through the tunnel.

Anybody done that?  Or maybe there is a better idea. I never use a flash to do a full cure, but I know it's been done.

Any advice would be appreciated!
Stan

P.S.  If it matters, the tag says ClimaLite and like I said, they are branded Adidas. 92% Polyester and 8% Elastane.

[mimosatexas]

heat press the sleeves?

[Frog]

Actually, with sleeves, can't the shirts be placed so that the numbers are pretty much folded under and not exposed to direct heat anyway?

[aauusa]

are you able to do a cold peel transfer with the artwork?  the crystals from One stroke which is used for transfers will work at 300 easily and then you oly get what is printed hot with a heat press.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Art details are teensy weensy. Don't think a transfer is a good idea, but that was my first plan. I DO have One Stroke stuff, and might still run a few samples to try, but like I said, there is a lot of detail.

And vinyl is out if the question because of the tiny stuff.

I don't think I can place the shirts in a  tricky way to avoid exposure of the vinyl. But I CAN cover the vinyl up with something.

It's hard to do this backwards, since our M.O. is ALWAYS the other way around. Just got stuck with this sleeve job. The first pass of vinyl was printable white, (with a 2nd color on top), since this brand of printable white resists bleeding. But it's bad about out gassing and making bubbles.

[larryk]

I would think that covering the numbers would work great Stan... That is what we do on those plastic zippers when we have to heat press them.

[mimosatexas]

I regularly do 45lpi halftones with transfers and the powder without issue.  You shouldn't have to worry about detail level and a transfer if you don't use too much pressure.

[jsheridan]

You can cover anything printed or pressed with a piece of cardboard so the heat won't effect it.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Some GREAT advice here, thanks!

And a hadn't thought about cardboard.

45 lpi halftones, transfered!?!? I need to step up my game on those, for sure.

Larry, on the plastic zippers, what do you use over them? A tee shirt?

[mimosatexas]

I use halftones A LOT for transfers to do multiple shades cheap.  Like say you want black and "gray" on a white shirt without having to print a gray.  Saves time and money and have yet to have it be a problem.

[Denis Kolar]

Just fold the numbers inside, so they are not directly exposed to the heat. You should be fine like that.

[larryk]

Larry, on the plastic zippers, what do you use over them? A tee shirt?
Just a plain ol tshirt.

[Frog]

Larry, on the plastic zippers, what do you use over them? A tee shirt?
Just a plain ol tshirt.

I use a lot of cardboard masks on things, but also have an actual rubber sheet from Stahls made for things like this on the heat press.

[larryk]

Yes Mr Frog those rubber sheets are quite handy for a variety of things.....

[GaryG]

Embroidery backing or pellon works good for masking heat too.
One or two layers and won't leave marks.