Murakami SP-1400

[Rockers]

Just looked through their TDS and it says "for use with plastisol and waterbased inks". A bit further down then they write "Suitable for use with water based inks when hardened with Murakami  MS or A&B Hardeners."
??
So without hardeners it`s useless for waterbased runs of any size? Or can we still use it for waterbased printing incl discharge even if we don`t use any hardener, just not for big runs? This is really confusing,  a TDS should answer all your questions not raise new ones.

[jvanick]

Sp1400 works great for waterbase runs without hardener.

My  only complaint is that it's hard to reclaim.

[TCT]

I have never use hardener with it. Best emulsion we have ever used, hands down!

[mimosatexas]

Only emulsion I use. Holds up amazingly well for discharge runs without hardening or post exposure. Great resolution too. Not sticky. Not brittle. Cheap.

Also reclaims without any issues with supra in the dip tank...at least for me.

[Rockers]

Sp1400 works great for waterbase runs without hardener.

My  only complaint is that it's hard to reclaim.

I begin to wonder if this might be due to the fact that the screens might be underexposed. Had a very similar situation with CCI WR-14 which we probably not exposed long enough on our LED unit, reclaiming was a bitch. Just looked up the old post and you suggested the same, expose screens longer. Did that not fix your problem with the SP-1400?

[jvanick]

Nope.  Even properly exposed or over exposed it's still tougher to reclaim than Saati PHU which also holds up to water base and discharge really well.

[TCT]

Jason, when you say hard to reclaim do you mean it just needs to sit in a dip tank longer out it physically seems to adhere and in turn remove from the mesh?

While I agree it needs a bit more time in the tank(maybe 10-15 vs. 5), we have never had a real problem blasting it off the mesh.

[jvanick]

it takes more work to blast it off the mesh... after you use a PP emulsion and it melts off with a quick pass of the pressure washer you get spoiled.

The other thing I don't like about diazo emulsions is how heat-sensitive they are... if you accidentally let your screen room get too warm (over 90 degrees), or let them sit in the drying cabinet too long, you'll dark harden them and they become hard to rinse out.

Other than those issues tho, it definitely makes quite a bullet proof screen out of the gate with no post-exposure or other tricks needed.  (As long as it's not a super dry winter -- then you need to swap over to their Winter blend, which has issues once it gets humid in the spring)

[Homer]

we haven't tried this one yet but since you guys are using LED units, try the HXT and add half a bottle of diazo...excellent detail and durability, reclaim like a PP, our longest exposure is 30 seconds on the starlight. we did some testing with the stouffer strip and were getting a hard 7 on 25 seconds on a 230, 2/1....

[ABuffington]

SP-1400 is one of our best emulsions for just about any textile printing.  Jason I am curious what are you using to wash out inks from the screen?  Any screen openers or hot solvents?  Typically I see it reclaiming easily and melting right off.  If you underexpose and use screen openers a lot for ink changes, or acetone, MEK, and even parts washer chems you can can lock in SBQ emulsions only see this, but it is possible the cleaners are causing your lock in on a diazo, which is rare.  LED exposure has some issues in that you can completely cure the print side while the inside may have slight underexposure.  With diazo this sensitivity may be lost once developed, but try post exposing with squeegee side toward the sun since some sensitivity may remain.  Also avoid overcoating.  SP-1400 has a high viscosity.  1:1 dull and 1:2 sharp is about all you will need.  Overcoating could also result in loss of resolution and may cause underexposure on the squeegee side.   My tests on an LED starlight were impressive.  19 seconds on a 200Y or 110W.  Very strong exposure.  If any other manufacturers want to send us a loaner I would love to calibrate all my emulsions on your units with proper coat, eom, and times by mesh.

TDS sheet format does need some revision Rockers, We are in the process of updating them for our new website. 

Also we have changed our diazo packaging.  We are sending diazo out in aluminum pouches which preserves the diazo better than the old bottles.  You can add water to the bag and fold over twice to mix, or add diazo to a wide mouth container and add water and mix.

SP-1400 can be used without hardeners for short runs, or MS hardener for longer auto runs.  MS hardener allows SP-1400 to remain reclaimable with a slightly higher concentrated reclaim solution.  My test shows it comes off easily.  If you see it difficult to reclaim try switching your screen cleaning chemistry to Murakami SC501, 505, 507 that are compatible clean up chemistries. 

Al

[Colin]

Its worth noting:

If you bulb is older, it may be a little weak in some of the necessary light spectrums.  Hence making it more difficult to reclaim.

This happened with us here.  We changed our bulb and it reclaimed much more readily.

Not nearly as well as the PHU we have been using.  But I no longer had complaints about reclaim.

[BKerfes]

Kiwo MultiTex is a great option! its a one part system that works on Plastisol, Water-Based and UV inks.
 

[dirkdiggler]

multi tex is SUPER sticky and sticks bad to the pusher frame, for those using the I image.

[Doug S]

Have any of you tried the Kiwo Discharge?  I'm using it with no complaints but I can't verify whether or not it's good for long runs of discharge. I'd love it if someone could chime in on the discharge durability part of it. 

It's a one part, has great definition and has a 1 year pot life.

[Rockers]

SP-1400 is one of our best emulsions for just about any textile printing.  Jason I am curious what are you using to wash out inks from the screen?  Any screen openers or hot solvents?  Typically I see it reclaiming easily and melting right off.  If you underexpose and use screen openers a lot for ink changes, or acetone, MEK, and even parts washer chems you can can lock in SBQ emulsions only see this, but it is possible the cleaners are causing your lock in on a diazo, which is rare.  LED exposure has some issues in that you can completely cure the print side while the inside may have slight underexposure.  With diazo this sensitivity may be lost once developed, but try post exposing with squeegee side toward the sun since some sensitivity may remain.  Also avoid overcoating.  SP-1400 has a high viscosity.  1:1 dull and 1:2 sharp is about all you will need.  Overcoating could also result in loss of resolution and may cause underexposure on the squeegee side.   My tests on an LED starlight were impressive.  19 seconds on a 200Y or 110W.  Very strong exposure.  If any other manufacturers want to send us a loaner I would love to calibrate all my emulsions on your units with proper coat, eom, and times by mesh.

TDS sheet format does need some revision Rockers, We are in the process of updating them for our new website. 

Also we have changed our diazo packaging.  We are sending diazo out in aluminum pouches which preserves the diazo better than the old bottles.  You can add water to the bag and fold over twice to mix, or add diazo to a wide mouth container and add water and mix.

SP-1400 can be used without hardeners for short runs, or MS hardener for longer auto runs.  MS hardener allows SP-1400 to remain reclaimable with a slightly higher concentrated reclaim solution.  My test shows it comes off easily.  If you see it difficult to reclaim try switching your screen cleaning chemistry to Murakami SC501, 505, 507 that are compatible clean up chemistries. 

Al

Alan, I remember you once recommended I should use Advance 20, now unfortunately that is the product name for the Chinese market. Any idea what it`s called in the US or even here in Japan?