Murakami SP-1400

[dirkdiggler]

Have any of you tried the Kiwo Discharge?  I'm using it with no complaints but I can't verify whether or not it's good for long runs of discharge. I'd love it if someone could chime in on the discharge durability part of it. 

It's a one part, has great definition and has a 1 year pot life.

are you adding the diazo?  it was my go to emulsion for years, but without the diazo, forget it for discharge!  and its SUPER expensive.

[jvanick]

Have any of you tried the Kiwo Discharge?  I'm using it with no complaints but I can't verify whether or not it's good for long runs of discharge. I'd love it if someone could chime in on the discharge durability part of it. 

It's a one part, has great definition and has a 1 year pot life.

are you adding the diazo?  it was my go to emulsion for years, but without the diazo, forget it for discharge!  and its SUPER expensive.

agreed... don't try it even with diazo for HSA... we got through 2 --- yes TWO -- shirts before the screen broke down... and it was a solid 9 on the stouffer strip.

[Doug S]

Sounds like I may have to swap.  It's a shame because the I image printed so well on it.

[ABuffington]

Rockers I will check and PM you with the name of the emulsion in Japan.  SP_1400 is pretty hard to beat in terms of price/production value.  HVP or HV with diazo is still a great long run alternative with faster exposing speeds.

Al

[mimosatexas]

I found HV/HVP too sticky and it seemed to have issues for me when it came to getting low and high percentage dots to stay on the emulsion during washout.  I only did minimal testing with Diazo though...

SP1400 really is awesome compared to the dozen or so other emulsions I've tried here and there.

[ABuffington]

For anyone who is having issues holding dots on HVP try coating less.  A 1:1 dull or better a 1:2 sharp will yield a better stencil thickness for details. 1:1 sharp can also be used on high mesh counts is also about all you need for halftone reproduction.  The key to HVP is coat slowly and use a firm pressure.  I see so many screen rooms where coating is done way too fast.  The goal is to imagine it going through the mesh openings and not skipping over the mesh.  Causes irregular EOM across the face of the screen as well as whipping bubbles into the emulsion that create pinholes.  .5 seconds by hand cannot compare to an auto coater that can take 5-6 seconds or more to complete a pass.  That pressure and slow speed pushes the emulsion back and forth to bind better with the mesh and gives more consistent EOM.

SP-1400 does have better resolution than HVP, but only by 1-2 percentage points. 

Al

[mimosatexas]

Interesting.  I coated with both pretty much the same.  1:1 about 8-10 seconds per side with a slight angle on the screen itself.  1:2 only for 280 mesh.  My issue wasn't so much the emulsion actually resolving the dots (as in they were visible when looking at the wetted emulsion post dunk dank), but anything under 15-20% would wash right off or come off within a few strokes on press.  SP1400 on the otherhand is pretty much bullet proof, and if the dot is there it is staying there.

[ABuffington]

if you see dots below 20% we are speaking of 80-95% tonal values with the neg dot not holding.  Check degreasing chem, add some more exposure time, use a finer mesh may help.  But if SP-1400 works, no need to fix.

[im_mcguire]

I use this emulsion for all of my plastisol printing (cant beat the price).  And I was told it would hold for waterbased / discharge printing as well.  Sweet! But as soon as I put my screen on press for my discharge print I was running, I got 8 shirts printed before it broke down.  In a scramble I went to a local retailer and bought CCI WR-14 and it has held for 1,000 shirts almost each day I have printed.  Cant say that with my experience I would use this again for discharge prints.  Or maybe I did something wrong.  There is always that option too right??

[ABuffington]

I use this emulsion for all of my plastisol printing (cant beat the price).  And I was told it would hold for waterbased / discharge printing as well.  Sweet! But as soon as I put my screen on press for my discharge print I was running, I got 8 shirts printed before it broke down.  In a scramble I went to a local retailer and bought CCI WR-14 and it has held for 1,000 shirts almost each day I have printed.  Cant say that with my experience I would use this again for discharge prints.  Or maybe I did something wrong.  There is always that option too right??

Are you referring to SP-1400?  Did you use any hardeners?  What was your exposure time on what type of unit?  I read these posts with a lot of question marks popping up. How is it some printers love it while others are having issues?  You can always PM me with your issues on any Murakami product, if it works for one really well, it can work for all really well, just need to dial in your particular system. This thread started off on SP-1400, if it ain't working for you we need to talk and help you discover the difference. I have print houses in the 100k range with no breakdown, easy to do, just let me know what's happening and we'll help fix it for you.

Alan
323.697.4334