Exposure unit fixture for cts screens

[Jwcontractscreen]

Anyone care to share pictures of a starlight exposure unit with no glass for exposing 23-31 frames? Preferably with using the unit in a traditional horizontal position.

[jvanick]

here ya go... I made some alumimum pieces to hold the screens at the same height as the glass was to lower any chances of undercutting.







the black tape is on the back of the aluminum just in case it falls in so it won't cause a short on the led strips.

[244]

here ya go... I made some alumimum pieces to hold the screens at the same height as the glass was to lower any chances of undercutting.







the black tape is on the back of the aluminum just in case it falls in so it won't cause a short on the led strips.

just a warning. This is NOT a good idea. We make the proper insert that turns the power off to the units when the cover is open. One touch of an aluminum screen will be lots of fireworks and quite expensive. Just a FYI

[Homer]

ours looks just like JV's only 1/8" steel....so here's a stupid question, should we still be closing the lid? we just lay the screen down, hit start and walk away...

[LuckyFlyinROUSH]

Technically yes close the lid, keeps dust and other debris out.

We have ours horizontal, no lid, etc, built a wood frame around it to protect it from carts and dumb employees swinging screens around. We throw an unused screen against it when we aren't using it. Helps a bit, blow the dust off every so often. No issues yet.


I DO highly recommend the metal pieces that M&R sells for CTS conversion on these units. They are movable per screen size, and will protect your unit as much as possible. 450$ is a small price to pay for something you 1. Don't have to make, and 2. Know it will protect your unit.

If you do something homemade, make sure to fasten it down just so they don't slip left or right...would be a bad day...

[Screen Dan]

Rich,  does the official M&R CTS kit place the screen at a significantly farther distance from the LEDs as compared to the glass?  We'll be ordering ours soon and I hadn't really considered this dynamic.  I'm sure you've tested this thoroughly for undercutting...Have you heard any complaints about the official CTS kit? Any difference in exposure times between on the glass and offset without glass?  I guess the lack of glass could let more light through and make the difference negligible or nil.

We'll likely be ordering ours soon, so, I'm an equal mix of absolutely excited and completely terrified since I simply do not have the space to keep the other monster exposure unit as a backup for exceptional situations but at the same time I can't wait to dial in a number and leave it forever.

[244]

ours looks just like JV's only 1/8" steel....so here's a stupid question, should we still be closing the lid? we just lay the screen down, hit start and walk away...

Doing what you are doing leaves power to the LED's regardless of whether the lid is up or down. Not a good idea. Our system turns the power off to the LED's when the door is open

[3Deep]

Why would power still be on the LED lights with the lid open? and if the LED light connecting wires are expose I would run a pc of electric tape across the exposed wires or something if a screen did fall from a homemade screen stand.

[LuckyFlyinROUSH]

Rich correct me if i'm wrong...but power is only on to LEDs when "exposing" the rest of the time our magnets for the lid are always together and the LEDs aren't on. 24/7

So its bright as hell when exposing, but not exposing it seems to be in standby mode after "cool down" fan mode.

[Homer]

Lucky, can you post up a picture of this retro fit? I'm not really understanding this M&R retro fit.

[LuckyFlyinROUSH]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UifJ3t6ziKs

All I've got ATM is the video. Pause it when I pull the screen off. You can see one of the black angle iron pieces. It has two angle iron pieces like in the above post, but a little wider. Then two rods that go perpendicular that you can slide the two angle iron pieces back and fourth on for different sized frames.

[RonH]

I have attached a photo of our CTS Kit installed on a Starlight 3140.  This sets the screen at the correct distance from the LED's. 
As Rich stated, there is power to the LED Panel even when the blanket frame is raised up.  The power is for the Inspection LED's, and that power is there even when they are turned off.  This is done a couple of different ways depending on the specific Starlight model.

Ron Hopkins
NuArc Sales Mgr.
M&R Sales and Service Co.

[BorisB]

Can retrofit CTS kit be removed again and glass put on?

[244]

Rich,  does the official M&R CTS kit place the screen at a significantly farther distance from the LEDs as compared to the glass?  We'll be ordering ours soon and I hadn't really considered this dynamic.  I'm sure you've tested this thoroughly for undercutting...Have you heard any complaints about the official CTS kit? Any difference in exposure times between on the glass and offset without glass?  I guess the lack of glass could let more light through and make the difference negligible or nil.

We'll likely be ordering ours soon, so, I'm an equal mix of absolutely excited and completely terrified since I simply do not have the space to keep the other monster exposure unit as a backup for exceptional situations but at the same time I can't wait to dial in a number and leave it forever.

Screen will be exactly the same with no undercutting and will be about 30% faster exposure

[RonH]

Question: Can retrofit CTS kit be removed again and glass put on?

Yes it can, but it takes a few minutes.  You would not want to be switching back and forth during a days work.  But if you needed to print a job from some old films you could remove the kit and put the glass back in the unit.

Ron Hopkins
NuArc Sls Mgr
M&R Sales and Service Co.