"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
I read somewhere on here gasoline works awesome
When I saw this topic I jumped into it looking for some revelation but alas no new news. Soft hand "plastic ink" has got to be the second holy grail especially in manual screen printing. Like everything in this business you have to get a lot of little elements to all go your way to get good results.Mesh count, tension, ink temperature, brand, color , off contact, speed , pressure, flash time / temp, shirt material variations from one platen to the next and on and on all contribute to the migration of good results.In this case the bandages we use are additives and after process effort like a heat press to recover from the less than ideal results. Unfortunately if you simply look at the advice and response to the original question you get the idea that pretty much all of us suffer the same heart burn day to day and shirt to shirt. Think about it one of the most prolific manufacturers here recently offered a roller device to flatten and treat rough prints for autos and manuals. Rough prints are simply a result of trying to apply a controlled colored stain to a bunch of shirts I have only been in this crazy business for a few seconds compared to most here but I can tell you the three most important things I learned that bring the best results is the realization that you have to .......adapt........improvise........and use every trick you can to get good results and what works today may not work tomorrow.mooseman
Quote from: mooseman on April 04, 2014, 07:49:29 AMWhen I saw this topic I jumped into it looking for some revelation but alas no new news. Soft hand "plastic ink" has got to be the second holy grail especially in manual screen printing. Like everything in this business you have to get a lot of little elements to all go your way to get good results.Mesh count, tension, ink temperature, brand, color , off contact, speed , pressure, flash time / temp, shirt material variations from one platen to the next and on and on all contribute to the migration of good results.In this case the bandages we use are additives and after process effort like a heat press to recover from the less than ideal results. Unfortunately if you simply look at the advice and response to the original question you get the idea that pretty much all of us suffer the same heart burn day to day and shirt to shirt. Think about it one of the most prolific manufacturers here recently offered a roller device to flatten and treat rough prints for autos and manuals. Rough prints are simply a result of trying to apply a controlled colored stain to a bunch of shirts I have only been in this crazy business for a few seconds compared to most here but I can tell you the three most important things I learned that bring the best results is the realization that you have to .......adapt........improvise........and use every trick you can to get good results and what works today may not work tomorrow.moosemansooo you're saying use lotion or ?.......We use a smoothing screen on every white base we print, it makes it really smooth and printing detail/halftones on top of it is a lot easier. I do not like additives, i'm not a chemist,but i think if you have to add something to your white, you are using the wrong ink for the job.speaking of rough hand, we printed a bunch of matsui 301 wb the other day, I could sand drywall mud with that stuff.....
wait, so you won't add stuff to your ink, but you will flatten it...I am no chemist either, but I am pretty sure they don't recommend that.Just bustin' your balls. I agree about adding stuff to the ink UNLESS you are going to do the whole gallon, or not put it back with the other ink.