How to print?

[cuttsdu]

How would I print the attached image? The customer wants the background logo to be low hand/feel..

Thanks!

[Prosperi-Tees]

You could probably achieve that with just a clear base through a high mesh count.

[mooseman]

There was a post about a month ago that talked about using white plastisol cut with I think it was 50% reducer.
Not sure I am getting this all correct possibly the Board Brother that posted that detail can ring back in.
mooseman

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

If I were printing that, I would definitely use Waterbased Discharge Ink through about a 230 mesh. It has a great hand right out of the tunnel, but after the first wash it's even better. I'd probably discharge the white also, but that's just me.

If you aren't set up for WB Discharge, look at the other posts for advice. I haven't messed around with those ideas much.

[tonypep]

We have many shade and tint formulas in WB and Plas for this type of app

[Grape Ape]

If you are a plastisol shop your best bet is to use Rutland type base S.H.A.P.E which has a nice body. You can tint with small amount of RFU ink if needed.

The shirt color(s) will determine your direction of tint from just using base. From picture and color type of shirt would think you would need small amount of black.

Print order - 180 - 230 Base, 180 White, FLASH, 180 White. 2 screens on manual 3 on auto.
Pending on your white you might need to go with 160 for opacity.

[Colin]

We have used several different types of plastisol ink to achieve the look of the dark navy portion of that print over the years.

We have settled on Rutland Primer Clear (softhand version) with about .5% of the C3 Black added to it to achieve that look with a super soft hand. If you are using a RFU ink then maybe 2% off the shelf black will work.  Print with a hard sharp squeegee blade and a single stroke/pass.

Like with Grape Ape above - Print order for us would be 180/225 for the clear printed wet on wet with the white base, flashed, then the highlite white.

Mesh counts of your choice for your white.

Easy peasy.

[Grape Ape]

Colin how is the body on that primer? Does it have same or thinner than their S.H.A.P.E.?

Thanks

[Colin]

Lower viscocity but it mattes fibers better.  It's closer to printing Chino/Fashion soft/Softee etc.

It WILL however, slowly build up over the run, so be aware of that.

It's the particles that help with fiber control that build up, take the good with the bad.....

I have several shirts with Primer Clear as the ink base used.  They look and feel great right out of the dryer and after repeated washing.

[Printficient]

Xenon Xenbase would do this.  Sort of like mixing Wilflex Finesse and Soft Hand Clear.

[Screened Gear]

This is easy. With plastisol, I would find the background logo color then thin it out with reducer about 80 percent reducer to 20 percent ink. Then print that with a 230 screen. Then print the rest as usual since your said the customer wants only the background logo to be softhand.

[Printficient]

This is easy. With plastisol, I would find the background logo color then thin it out with reducer about 80 percent reducer to 20 percent ink. Then print that with a 230 screen. Then print the rest as usual since your said the customer wants only the background logo to be softhand.

This should be a "Curable" reducer and not reducer.  Even so an 80/20 ratio is a little radical.  40% max reducer and a 305 or 355 mesh count will get you the results you are looking for.

[Orion]

A little caveat from an experience we had printing straight fashion soft base to achieve a tone-on-tone look. We printed it through a 255 mesh on soft style shirts, I think next level brand. After the first wash we discovered there was no mat down and fibrillation ruined the effect. The fix was to heat press the garments @ 350f for about 10 seconds to lock down the fibers.

[Colin]

Orion,

You can also hit it on press right after a flash with a roller screen.  Gives you a lot of the same effect as heat pressing.

Also, try a different soft hand ink, one that is designed to matte the fibers a touch more.

And I hate to say it..... slightly lower screen mesh..... if we want fiber trap, we need enough ink layed down to encapsulate and hold the fibers....

[Printficient]

Rick blogged about this on the Ink Kitchen yesterday.