HSA inks on Royal Tees

[brandon]

We like HSA for the fact that our clients are not worried about compliance issues so when printing :

1. On top of discharge it is easy, the results are stellar with matt down, brightness, and lack of hand.

2. Clean up is a breeze.

3. Pricing for us is cheaper than plastisol.

Again, this is just us. We had to reclaim a plastisol screen the other day for the first time in weeks. Wow, screw that!

But back to the question - yup, if you can't do discharge underneath is can be a pain. But depending on the design we do from time to time just white flash white HSA on black and it is the brightest white ever. But again depends on design - amount of real estate in the print area and so forth

[ZooCity]

Agreed. IMO, HSA inks not ready for prime time and way too expensive

I'll agree on all points but this ink is being used by very large shops, larger than any conversing on here.  So ready or not, HSA is absolutely "prime time" at this point.

Most HSA whites are less expensive than quality white plastisol. Personally I love the stuff.
Mattes down even the gnarliest of yarn ends.

We get opaque whites with two screens, lowish mesh, double stroke the first single on the second.
Trick for us is to run the ink on the scary side of thick, IE no water/retarder etc. It can make production
a touchy affair in hot dry climates but if you manage it correctly it's all gravy.

Absolutely.  Running the ink thick yields plastisol like opacity.  Our climate is too dry here though.  The ink will literally dry on the inside edges of stencils.

Clean up of these inks has not been friendly for us.  We use Rutland HSA.  On our last move I added warm water to washout to deal with the HSA.

Our HSA Soft White is a little more expensive than Quick White.  What are yinz using for opaque HSA white and what are you running per 5er? 

For those wondering why bother with these, I wonder that myself often but you can't hold a candle to our HSA prints with plastisol, the HSA is very low to the shirt, softer and still fully opaque.  But yes, it can be hell if not over a DC UB.

[TCT]

Most HSA whites are less expensive than quality white plastisol. Personally I love the stuff.
Mattes down even the gnarliest of yarn ends.

We get opaque whites with two screens, lowish mesh, double stroke the first single on the second.
Trick for us is to run the ink on the scary side of thick, IE no water/retarder etc. It can make production
a touchy affair in hot dry climates but if you manage it correctly it's all gravy.

Totally agree.
We had a Matsui rep in last week and we ran a job with one of their over complicated named whites and it knocked our socks off!
We ran a job today that was essentially a solid pic of the U.S. ~12"*7" or so, so a LOT of open area and with 2 HSA whites it was way nicer than when we use to print the design in plastisol. Drying in the screen does kind of make you want to pull your hair out, or actually consider inquiring what one of those mister attachments costs:-[

[Homer]

huh...we do about 75% wb/dc jobs and slowly growing as we can not STAND plastisol....maybe we should investigate these a little further...what would be a good one to start with, as far as a white goes?

[ericheartsu]

huh...we do about 75% wb/dc jobs and slowly growing as we can not STAND plastisol....maybe we should investigate these a little further...what would be a good one to start with, as far as a white goes?

We really like the Green Galaxy Inks. And they are about to launch their pigment system. We got it in today, will be mixing it up next week!

[TCT]

@Ericheartsu do you guys use the Green Galaxy white for your HSA white? If you do, do you modify it at all?

[abchung]

Can we use Matsui Neo P.C with Rutland WB99 or any Rutland waterbase?

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

[ericheartsu]

@Ericheartsu do you guys use the Green Galaxy white for your HSA white? If you do, do you modify it at all?

we do use it, we add a little bit of water, and we started adding warped drive to most of our inks, just to be extra sure that they are fully curing.

[willy35]

For 1 color white job and waterbased, I found polyurethane based wated based ink better than acrylic base.
The opacity is better.

[IntegrityShirts]

Can we use Matsui Neo P.C with Rutland WB99 or any Rutland waterbase?

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

The Rutland wb99 base will work with Matsui pigments but I did have some issues with ink turning to a jelly consistency. I use cci DC bases with the Matsui pigments with no issues.

Is the Matsui stretch white an HSA ink? Seems to cover well with 2 layers...

[abchung]

Can we use Matsui Neo P.C with Rutland WB99 or any Rutland waterbase?

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

The Rutland wb99 base will work with Matsui pigments but I did have some issues with ink turning to a jelly consistency. I use cci DC bases with the Matsui pigments with no issues.

Is the Matsui stretch white an HSA ink? Seems to cover well with 2 layers...

Thanks for the info.

I mix the matsui 301 white stretch with matsui 301 white because the stretch white dries too fast.
we also add small amount of old white mixture to thicken the white to give better opacity. I don't know how it will affect the durability of the print. But we heat press @ 155C all our matsui inks because I put it in the I.R oven at 140C for 2.5 minutes. The ink won't fade.

I use to have a customer that tried to find any excuse to lower the price. He tried to stretch test the 100% stretch white ink to Crack test it. He ripped his cotton fabric before the ink cracked....



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[Sbrem]

At the beginning of the thread it sounds like a major pain. Our first try with it a couple of years ago with a sample from Rutland was, shall we say, hated? Now, with a little more input from folks, I can see the need, but not here yet, as we've had absolutely no request for this. I am a little surprised at how some have developed a disdain for plastisol, having printed with it for 40 years very happily. My first job was with air dry vinyl inks, and we had to stop and clean the squeegee, floodbar, and all the ink out of the screen, which was 30 x 45 on a flatbed press so we could go to lunch and shut down at the end of the day. So plastisol, "What? It doesn't air dry?" was pretty good. That makes this a kind of turn around in my head, so I just want to get all the info I can, which is best gotten here from you folks. Keep it coming, please.

Steve

[Homer]

what drives us crazy about pastisol is the need for flashing and all the mess that goes along with that.

[jvanick]

what drives us crazy about pastisol is the need for flashing and all the mess that goes along with that.

HSA is just as bad or worse with flashing...

and it's bleed resistance seems to be next to zero, so you usually have to base with a blocker (black) -flash- white -flash- and then top white or colors...

the hand is definitely superior to plastisol tho...

we've been doing ALL badger digital camo with this method and it's been working great.

[ebscreen]

HSA white flashes significantly faster than even a fast flashing plastisol white.