Waterbased washout

[mimosatexas]

That's definitely going to be the issue.  The heather's have poly and are going to act totally different.

[jvanick]

we use fixer in everything... the extra 3% mix for the matsui fixer-n is just 'part of our process' now... 

since you say you printed the back first, and the backs were fine.. my guess is that the fronts didn't spend long enough in the dryer to get up to temperature to fully lock the pigments into the fibers.  The backs on the other hand got enough heat the second time through to fully set.

our belt speed for waterbase work is SSSLLLOOOWWW.... minimum dwell time is 2-2-1/2 minutes in the chamber at 340.  even at that speed tho, we're still averaging nearly 350 shirts/hr down the belt,   (we also have a tendency to doublestroke discharge -- most likely due to superstition, but it works, and the shirts look and wash great, so it is what it is).

[ericheartsu]

Heather grey shirts seem to be very hard to cure WB on.  Looks like you had about 1 min of dwell time in the oven.  I believe most WB manufacturers recommend at the minimum 2 minutes of dwell time, we mostly use 3.  There is a huge difference in durability between 1 and 3 minutes.

would be roughly 1 min and 40 seconds in the dryer, which is our standard DC/WB cure

[Orion]

I would say undercured. Eric you mentioned white dc ubase, what was the white/base ratio?

[ericheartsu]

I would say undercured. Eric you mentioned white dc ubase, what was the white/base ratio?

CCI 80% base, 20% White

What i don't understand though, is why the purple would wash out, but not the white. Especially since the purple was the 3rd color in the sequence. The undercuring i get, but for a color to wash out? that i don't get

[ebscreen]

What's the inside of the shirt look like? I don't see any effect on the shirt at all from the dcub?

We use straight CCI base for dcub, adding white makes me nervous. I would be particularly
nervous on anything with poly in it. Those Tultex blends feel like they've been siliconed.

[ericheartsu]

I thought the same thing about the DCUB. And i'm having the client take a pic for me.

We've never had an issue with the base before, and we use it multiple times a day.

[starchild]

Were you experienceing build up? Were you running a high squeegee pressure or higher offcontact? Higher pressure on bad ink or overloaded ink  could cause the pigments to separate from it's carrier and you end up with a thin flaky layer on the shirt and no curing will fix it.

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[ericheartsu]

not that I recall. This was the last print of a very frustrating day, but i don't recall there being any build up issues, as the purple was being flashed heavily due to it being a HSA.

Also pressure was pretty low, according to our notes, around 35psi.

[ericheartsu]

i talked to ryonet and green galaxy, and they just suggested that we needed more cure time.

they also suggested adding warped drive into all the inks, which i actually don't think is a bad idea.

[Colin]

Warp drive is a band aid for your problem...... Its like adding nylon bonding additive to plastisol and hoping it stays on the shirt.

Warp Drive is designed to help ink cure at a lower temperature.  If your ink is not curing at the correct temp and time..... it's bad ink.

With good ink and I see no problem adding warp drive.  It will only assist you with proper cure time.

Lets find out what the other garments are doing during your wash test and go from there.

Remember, Green Galaxy inks are made in Italy and its awful hard to go to the lab and test a retain sample.......

[abchung]

did you check you exhaust? is it sucking out your water vapour out of the oven?

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[JBLUE]

Under cured for sure. We run a Sprint with 8 ft of heat at 8 and the temp at 380-395. Shirt temp in the 360's. No wash out problems. We add Fixer to everything but the whites. We print discharge everyday and random wash test for QA with no issues.

Your other problem could be buying from people that relabel their stuff so its a guessing game as to what your getting sometimes. Buy from the manufacture or buy from someone that sells it as what it is. Not only will you know what your getting but you will save lots of cash along the way. Not saying that this is the whole issue but its definitely in the equation.

[ericheartsu]

Under cured for sure. We run a Sprint with 8 ft of heat at 8 and the temp at 380-395. Shirt temp in the 360's. No wash out problems. We add Fixer to everything but the whites. We print discharge everyday and random wash test for QA with no issues.

Your other problem could be buying from people that relabel their stuff so its a guessing game as to what your getting sometimes. Buy from the manufacture or buy from someone that sells it as what it is. Not only will you know what your getting but you will save lots of cash along the way. Not saying that this is the whole issue but its definitely in the equation.

if i'm not mistaken Green Galaxy is not a re-label...but i could be incorrect. I also though Virus was from Italy, not Green Galaxy.

On your dryer, do your Triblend and Light color garments not scorch at that temp?

[ericheartsu]

Also, here are some updated pics. Two new pics of a different gray shirt, and one of the Teal Shirts.