Taping in a production loop

[ericheartsu]

I'm interested in how some of the other mid sized to larger shops work with screen tape. What is your production loop process? Do you have someone who's sole focus is taping up and tearing down screens?

I feel like we spend alot of time and money on taping up screens, and i'm wondering if there are better ways (aside from not taping at all).

Currently we expose, dry, block out, dry, tape up inside (and out if it's ganged), and go to press. Currently we use Split tape, and blue tape. Typically only adding blue tape when we are printing WB/DC, along the squeegee flood bar runs.

So it's quite a process.

Anyone feel like sharing how their shop gets screens taped up?

[ol man]

same here - except that split tape is way too expensive - 3 inch packing tape is our go to.

[Screen Dan]

For context, we have 600 23x31 MZX rollers and process 150 to 200 screens per day, supplying 2 shifts of 4 autos.

from stretch/reclaim they go to the drying room, get coated, dried, taped, masked, exposed, developed, hit the drying room again and go out to press.

We use 3" PMI split tape and even in the dip tank it holds up just fine...even if it slips off while spraying out just push it back into place when you bring it to the drying room and all is well.

Everybody in the screen department enjoyed the change from taping once the developed screen was dried even though it seems like we're just shifting the labor from one end of the cycle to the other.  This also makes it so if 2nd shift needs to replace a screen...and there is no 2nd shift screen department...all they have to learn is how to image, expose and spray.  In the past they would get frustrated by the split tape and go right to blue tape for everything...which is murder to get off of the frame.

[ericheartsu]

For context, we have 600 23x31 MZX rollers and process 150 to 200 screens per day, supplying 2 shifts of 4 autos.

from stretch/reclaim they go to the drying room, get coated, dried, taped, masked, exposed, developed, hit the drying room again and go out to press.

We use 3" PMI split tape and even in the dip tank it holds up just fine...even if it slips off while spraying out just push it back into place when you bring it to the drying room and all is well.

Everybody in the screen department enjoyed the change from taping once the developed screen was dried even though it seems like we're just shifting the labor from one end of the cycle to the other.  This also makes it so if 2nd shift needs to replace a screen...and there is no 2nd shift screen department...all they have to learn is how to image, expose and spray.  In the past they would get frustrated by the split tape and go right to blue tape for everything...which is murder to get off of the frame.

So you just keep your frames, more or less permanently taped? Do you use a CTS? does it get in the way of that?

[mimosatexas]

Woah, split tape in a dip tank?  Never actually thought about keeping the split tape on the frame...

Honestly though, why would you?  It seems like it would cause the same issues as permanent blockout when it comes to reclaim, only it can also come off randomly and requires putting back on.  What's the benefit?

I use the 3" split tape and love it.  I tape after exposure and drying, either just before it goes on press, or actually on press.  I've tried LOTS of tape and it is the only one that doesn't: leave residue, shred when pulling off, fail when using waterbased, stick to thicker emulsion like glue, stretch and cause bubbling or creasing when trying to put it on, require tons of effort to get off if left on for more than a day, and a whole bunch of other annoyances that seem to affect everything else I have tried.

People always come on and say "I use dollar store packing tape" or "i use generic blue painters tape" and i have tried both with horrible results.  The packing tapes all leave residue, shred when removing, or fail when you try waterbased inks.  The blue tapes all bleed when you use waterbased inks, so yellow ink ends up with green streaks.  I guess if your shop only uses one kind of ink and you find a tape that works for you, awesome! I can't seem to get away from the split tape, even though it is expensive, because it just always works without any headaches...

[jvanick]

Woah, split tape in a dip tank?  Never actually thought about keeping the split tape on the frame...

Honestly though, why would you?  It seems like it would cause the same issues as permanent blockout when it comes to reclaim, only it can also come off randomly and requires putting back on.  What's the benefit?

I use the 3" split tape and love it.  I tape after exposure and drying, either just before it goes on press, or actually on press.  I've tried LOTS of tape and it is the only one that doesn't: leave residue, shred when pulling off, fail when using waterbased, stick to thicker emulsion like glue, stretch and cause bubbling or creasing when trying to put it on, require tons of effort to get off if left on for more than a day, and a whole bunch of other annoyances that seem to affect everything else I have tried.

People always come on and say "I use dollar store packing tape" or "i use generic blue painters tape" and i have tried both with horrible results.  The packing tapes all leave residue, shred when removing, or fail when you try waterbased inks.  The blue tapes all bleed when you use waterbased inks, so yellow ink ends up with green streaks.  I guess if your shop only uses one kind of ink and you find a tape that works for you, awesome! I can't seem to get away from the split tape, even though it is expensive, because it just always works without any headaches...

I totally agree with all of your points 100%. -- this is why we use the split tape here too.. I'd rather pay the extra $ or 2 and not have hassle factor than save money.

to me time=money...

[mimosatexas]

Yea, I don't go through enough of it to find the costs outweigh the benefits.  I just freaking hate picking off tape bits or dealing with gummy mess or having crap fail midrun and have to add a bunch more tape to prevent drips.  Really a lot of the issues happen with waterbased inks, especially as the emulsion kind of softens up and gets humid or sticky, which tends to happen here in central texas.  The emulsion isn't failing or anything, it just kind of starts to attract moisture like a glass of water does, and that cause lots of tapes to just act weird as hell.

[jvanick]

we go through a roll of it a day..  $12.25 a day in tape... (already built into our costing model as well).

-J

[Homer]

we don't tape at all....expose -> dry -> aquablock -> dry -> print it

tape is the biggest PITA from application to removal...just ran 1k dc prints. not a single issue. we don't even block out on our plastisol screens. if you don't put a whole freakin gallon of ink on your screen, you don't have to.

wider scoop coater = tapeless.

[Screen Dan]

The dip tank is for developing.  The CTSs don't care about the tape...in fact it helps keep odd threads and tiny flaps from hitting the head and ruining a screen.

The tape gets pulled before washing and reclaim...though we did try out leaving it on through that.  We'd just have to fish it out of the reclaim dip tank every few days.  I didn't like that and I worried about the adhesive screwing with the emulsion remover chemistry...but we didn't have to pull tape for those few months and we never did have any problems with the emulsion remover.  I just got a bad feeling about it.

If I were to suggest taping after developing my guys would go through all the stages of grief, I'm sure.

Either way,taping after coating (and drying) works great for me....as always, every shop is different and your mileage may vary.

[mimosatexas]

You're paying 12.25 a roll for the 3 inch split tape?  Talk to Kevin!

[ericheartsu]

The dip tank is for developing.  The CTSs don't care about the tape...in fact it helps keep odd threads and tiny flaps from hitting the head and ruining a screen.

The tape gets pulled before washing and reclaim...though we did try out leaving it on through that.  We'd just have to fish it out of the reclaim dip tank every few days.  I didn't like that and I worried about the adhesive screwing with the emulsion remover chemistry...but we didn't have to pull tape for those few months and we never did have any problems with the emulsion remover.  I just got a bad feeling about it.

If I were to suggest taping after developing my guys would go through all the stages of grief, I'm sure.

Either way,taping after coating (and drying) works great for me....as always, every shop is different and your mileage may vary.

Our CTS hates tape inside and out

[mimosatexas]

we don't tape at all....expose -> dry -> aquablock -> dry -> print it

tape is the biggest PITA from application to removal...just ran 1k dc prints. not a single issue. we don't even block out on our plastisol screens. if you don't put a whole freakin gallon of ink on your screen, you don't have to.

wider scoop coater = tapeless.

I use a 19" wide coater on my 23x31's.  Barely half an inch on each side exposed, but I still use the tape.  It makes cleanup easier since none of the ink can get in the corners of the frame.  Might not be an issue if you are on an auto where the screen stays level and you are using winded floods etc.  On a manual it would definitely get into the corners on runs longer than 20-30 pieces or if you are using a runnier ink (like black).  Only time I don't tape my plastisol screens is when running low volume transfers since the screen is barely ever vertical and so little ink is needed.

Waterbased would be a nightmare without tape or blockout, but again I like not having to make sure to blast out the edges during cleanup.

[Doug S]

Our CTS hates tape inside and out
[/quote]

I used to tape inside and out with the yellow tape but since I went CTS, I just tape on the back side as far to the left, right, bottom and top as possible to avoid head strikes.  I use 3" white packing tape for the inside.  I don't tape the corners on the back any longer either, I just make sure that there is no mesh sticking up, I usually just cut that off in a straight line between the panel strips on the panels as per Mike's suggestion and it works like a charm.

[jvanick]

You're paying 12.25 a roll for the 3 inch split tape?  Talk to Kevin!

we use 4 inch here... 3 inch isn't wide enough to cover the ends of the screens where the scoop coater doesn't go due to the corner softening on the newman's.  but now looking at his site, maybe we'll have to switch as his price for 18 rolls is WAY cheaper than what we're paying now.  Honestly never gave it that much thought.

-J