I Need To Call An Experienced CHILLER Tech

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

the solenoid drains are a great invention - we have a 25hp screw compressor that has one built in - i also have one on the wet air tank (air tank before the chiller) and another auto drain on a filter before the air chiller.   all the solenoid auto drains empty into a filter system that cleans the water so it can be safe for the drain.  the filter is like an industrial sized britta filter - oil absorbing material on one side and a charcoal filter on the other.  i wouldnt drink the water, but it cleans the oil out of the water.  after the filter it goes into a condensate drain and then pumped out the window (we are on the 5th floor).

the auto solenoid drains are great so you wont have to worry about water in the compressor and tanks.  its as simple as reading the instructions and a few air fittings.   the timed drains open up on a timed schedule.  there are other models that have a float that triggers the solenoid and then opens the valve to dump the water - this prevents wasting air (if there isnt any water to drain, it dosent open).    timed drains at grainger run about $100.  float style can run about 250 and up.

Wow.  I didn't know this.  Does the tank drain UNDER PRESSURE?  That would be a rude awakening without exhaust piping of some kind.

See Stan, your question is helping on all fronts of quality air 

Oh yeah. Happens all the time. This is such great forum! I told my wife the other day that I'm about a 2nd semester Sophomore in Theshirtboard College of Screenprinting. Truth is, that is probably a little optimistic!

[Zelko-4-EVA]

the solenoid drains are a great invention - we have a 25hp screw compressor that has one built in - i also have one on the wet air tank (air tank before the chiller) and another auto drain on a filter before the air chiller.   all the solenoid auto drains empty into a filter system that cleans the water so it can be safe for the drain.  the filter is like an industrial sized britta filter - oil absorbing material on one side and a charcoal filter on the other.  i wouldnt drink the water, but it cleans the oil out of the water.  after the filter it goes into a condensate drain and then pumped out the window (we are on the 5th floor).

the auto solenoid drains are great so you wont have to worry about water in the compressor and tanks.  its as simple as reading the instructions and a few air fittings.   the timed drains open up on a timed schedule.  there are other models that have a float that triggers the solenoid and then opens the valve to dump the water - this prevents wasting air (if there isnt any water to drain, it dosent open).    timed drains at grainger run about $100.  float style can run about 250 and up.

Wow.  I didn't know this.  Does the tank drain UNDER PRESSURE?  That would be a rude awakening without exhaust piping of some kind.

See Stan, your question is helping on all fronts of quality air 

Oh yeah. Happens all the time. This is such great forum! I told my wife the other day that I'm about a 2nd semester Sophomore in Theshirtboard College of Screenprinting. Truth is, that is probably a little optimistic!

the auto drain uses the compressed air to move the water out of the tank and into the filter.   the sound of a timed auto drain is similar to the sound from the pneumatic exhaust on your automatic press. 

our filter system has a foam filter that muffles the sound of the air exhaust.   its loud enough to hear outside but not obnoxious in the shop. 

here is a link (looked it up from google pictures) to what our filter system looks like

http://www.maschinensucher.de/ma2/bilderanzeigen-A1799336-4-de.html

[244]

Wow, you got great a deal. Whoda thunk that you could score a chiller on Amazon!

But I'm a little surprised even at the full 2400 clams that your chiller would be a correct match for a 75 CFM pump.

My little chiller (if it really is working now) only has to dry just about a third of that volume.

And @ Mike, is the picture you posted from your Harbor Freight Chiller? I might try some air up the drain tube now and again. Good idea! And in your part of Florida, you must have more moisture than I do in Kansas. Plus my compressor lives in an air conditioned room. (Weird. I know) So there isn't as much moisture in its ambient environment. But WOW...you drained 5 Gallons in one day from your HF 40211?!?!? That's some serious condensate! I have your phone number, but I haven't called you in years. I might now....

And @ Jason, on the first chiller I recieved the "OUT" was really really cold. This one, not so much. When I pulled the plug on my Gauntlet, there was only oil in the pan. Not a single drop of water, foam or whitish looking oil. (WHEW!!) They guy Professor Pepitone referred me to suggested that even though there didn't appear to be any water in the base of the press, I should blow dry air all through the piping and base, by leaving the plug out and turning on the air (with the chiller running of course) for about 5 minutes. I did that. I don't think I have a separator before my press. I'm still really really new to autos, but I'll look. I do have a regulator that has a separator right under my chiller which is up a ways on the wall.

And @ Darryl, I rarely drain my compressor. I did yesterday after reading your post and got just over a gallon. But like I mentioned above, my compressor sits in an air conditioned room. It is just around 35% humidity in there most days. There was a little rust in the 80 gallon tank, which worries me a little. Does yours have a little "red" color (besides oil) showing in the liquid?

And @ Rich, I mentioned a 5HP Champion with about 75 feet of 1/2 piping, but I couldn't find out anything about the High Temp rating of the chiller. It does have a compressor, condenser, and a cooling fan for the condenser. (And I presume an exchanger of some type) It isn't the type shown in the cutaway here:  http://www.jtdryers.com/Order_Now.html

Thanks guys!
Stan

HT chillers are for use within 50' of the compressor. They have a heat exchanger inside the cabinet that cools the air down enough to enter the chiller and have it drop the dew point. If the chiller is not HT it should be at least 50' away from the compressor so the air has a chance to naturally cool of before being chilled. Running a non HT chiller closer to the compressor will cause premature failure as well as let some water make it through. Just a FYI.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Thanks Rich. Really good information.

My chiller is MUCH closer than 50' so I'll look into the air temp at the inlet. I'll assume that cooler is better.

Stan