Waterbased adhesive

[LoneWolf2]

Looking to completely get away from spray tack stuff in the shop since it just causes a huge mess, but I haven't found a waterbased adhesive that's worth a damn yet.

I've used 3 different kinds of WB tack, and none of it has lasted for more than a few dozen shirts (Pro-tac, albatross, and some rebranded stuff from Spot Color). Granted I am printing on comfort colors shirts, so they're extra linty and messy in general, but that adhesive should still last longer than that.

What brand/kind of stuff are y'all using that have had good/long results? It's a pain in the ass having to stop production to re-apply every few rounds.

[Frog]

Looking to completely get away from spray tack stuff in the shop since it just causes a huge mess, but I haven't found a waterbased adhesive that's worth a damn yet.

I've used 3 different kinds of WB tack, and none of it has lasted for more than a few dozen shirts (Pro-tac, albatross, and some rebranded stuff from Spot Color). Granted I am printing on comfort colors shirts, so they're extra linty and messy in general, but that adhesive should still last longer than that.

What brand/kind of stuff are y'all using that have had good/long results? It's a pain in the ass having to stop production to re-apply every few rounds.

First off, you don't re-apply, you de-lint. Stiff brush, scrub pad, weapon of choice.
And I am pretty happy with Tekbond TB-HV,
btw, Simon from Tekbond just joined TSB a couple days ago, probably inspired by this thread
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,15108.0.html

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I didn't like it at first either, but it turned out I just didn't know how to use it effectively.

I water mine down 50/50 water--tac. I brush it on with a foam brush squirted on with a ketchup bottle. I always flip on the flash to warm the boards prior to the FIRST applicaiton. Then you can run a LOT of shirts before re-applying the tack. I de-fuzz with water and a green Scotch Brite (type mounted to a sponge) and after letting the water sit on the shirtboards for the first round, then scratching off the fuzz on the next round, I've come to REALLY like it! Warmer boards work better.  I might go a month on the same papers, unless I have a sizable hoodie order, I leave the web spray in the cabinet.

Here is a link for fleece and hoodies.   http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,13138.0/nowap.html  Mr Moosey has a step by step listed that is more or less what I do with fleece.

I've had limited success with it, but I can print short runs of hoodies okay. 2 pieces, and I'm removing fuzz on 10 boards. (4 for my manual)  But it beats spray tac for certain jobs.  But I can't seem to use WB Tac to print White Plastisol on hoodies if the covered areas are largish. It just won't clear and leave the fleece sufficiently attached to the transfer paper.

And WHATEVER you do, make a mask for your shirtboards like Andy linked to in his reply. I've been using the same one for a LOOOONG while.  If I ever see The Frogmeister parked along Highway 1 with his hood up, he's getting help from me! That One (1) tip alone, is worth all the fiddling around I've done on this and other forums. I don't know why I didn't think of it, but I didn't.

[Printficient]

Xentack from Xenon.  I can bring some up on Monday as I am in Woodstock GA.  $25 per gallon.  1st gallon is on me.  Call.
404-895-1796
Sonny

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Sonny, is that Water Based? Do you use it right from the container??

[Frog]

  1st gallon is on me. 
Sonny

[Printficient]

Sonny, is that Water Based? Do you use it right from the container??

You can use it straight or cut it.

[Rockers]

We use CCI`s glue but where as well happy with Tekbond. CCI has at least two different kind of H2O based glue. There is a real strong one and a "common" strength one.
Check this link http://www.ccidom.com/us/en/products/adhesives/

[tonyt79]

I didn't like it at first either, but it turned out I just didn't know how to use it effectively.

I water mine down 50/50 water--tac. I brush it on with a foam brush squirted on with a ketchup bottle. I always flip on the flash to warm the boards prior to the FIRST applicaiton. Then you can run a LOT of shirts before re-applying the tack. I de-fuzz with water and a green Scotch Brite (type mounted to a sponge) and after letting the water sit on the shirtboards for the first round, then scratching off the fuzz on the next round, I've come to REALLY like it! Warmer boards work better.  I might go a month on the same papers, unless I have a sizable hoodie order, I leave the web spray in the cabinet.

Here is a link for fleece and hoodies.   http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,13138.0/nowap.html  Mr Moosey has a step by step listed that is more or less what I do with fleece.

I've had limited success with it, but I can print short runs of hoodies okay. 2 pieces, and I'm removing fuzz on 10 boards. (4 for my manual)  But it beats spray tac for certain jobs.  But I can't seem to use WB Tac to print White Plastisol on hoodies if the covered areas are largish. It just won't clear and leave the fleece sufficiently attached to the transfer paper.

And WHATEVER you do, make a mask for your shirtboards like Andy linked to in his reply. I've been using the same one for a LOOOONG while.  If I ever see The Frogmeister parked along Highway 1 with his hood up, he's getting help from me! That One (1) tip alone, is worth all the fiddling around I've done on this and other forums. I don't know why I didn't think of it, but I didn't.

This is exactly what I do besides watering down. it took me a while to make the change because I couldn't get it to work to my liking. Once I got it right, I never looked back to spray. Still can't figure out how to make it work for long hoodie runs.

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[Frog]

 Still can't figure out how to make it work for long hoodie runs.

The dilemma which prompted the previous thread
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,15108.0.html

[tonyt79]

 Still can't figure out how to make it work for long hoodie runs.

The dilemma which prompted the previous thread
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,15108.0.html

Thanks! Missed that one.

Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk

[farmboygraphics]

Tekbond TB-HV, Water spray bottle with a stiff bristle brush to de-lint

[LoneWolf2]

Thanks for the tips fellas.
I'll have to give them a try and see how it goes.

[screenxpress]

I been using Tex Tac for 8+ years

Apply a dab in the middle, spread with a wet paper towel (to get a slightly diluted mixture), flash for a min to dry and get tacky.

When lint builds, take a wet paper towel and scrub it off, flash again and go.

[Frog]

I been using Tex Tac for 8+ years

Apply a dab in the middle, spread with a wet paper towel (to get a slightly diluted mixture), flash for a min to dry and get tacky.

When lint builds, take a wet paper towel and scrub it off, flash again and go.

Flash for a minute? First that blew my mind, and I then realized that perhaps you have bare naked aluminum boards. At a usual distance that gives one a 1-10 second flash,  a minute would fry rubber or melamine.