oh my transfers have become easy

[aauusa]

hey just wanted to give a shout out to One Stroke ink,  I have been using the old traditional crystals, and hot split paper for my transfers.   always had to be careful about them getting to hot either in flash or dryer.  we all know that drill.

but with One Strokes new powder you use cold peel paper, normal ink, and who cares if it cures on the paper.  it will work brilliant.  print like you would on a tee shirt, the press for 12-15sec at 310 and your done.

[Gilligan]

They have a kit that presses at 275 for even easier poly garments.

Love the stuff!

[Frog]

Not to knock the One Stroke ink and adhesive, but that's a cold peel, giving a very different result from the hot splits which leave less ink and less hand.

That said, most of my plastisol transfers are/were of this type.

[Gilligan]

The one stroke kit that I'm speaking of is more so geared towards athletic stuff.  Super awesome for that, because you full cure in your dryer then heat press the adhesive to the garment.

[Sbrem]

Full cure in the dryer, really? Then it just transfers easy peasy?

Steve

[Orion]

I'm sure this method works as advertised, but I'll remain skeptical until someone can provide wash test results.

[Gilligan]

Well, we haven't had a call back yet.

It works as advertised!

Think about it... when you use adhesive powder you really aren't sticking the ink to the shirt you are sticking the powder to the shirt and the powder to the ink.  So their powder just melts the powder which adheres it all down.

You have to let it cool because if not the powder is still "gooey" and will peel off the shirt.  Once cooled, the paper pulls of the ink "easy peasy".

[Frog]

Think of fully cured plastisol as a heat seal film, and the powder as your adhesive.

[aauusa]

yes it is that easy... just did a mess load of team shirts using this method and no one issue.  even did multiple washing.

another added plus was that my old way I had to hit the white flash then white and flash again then powder down the dryer.  I need the double white to get a solid color on the shirts,  well the new way just one hit and you are good to go.

[Sbrem]

It's the full cure that made me take notice... how about multi color Gill? Color down first, flash, One Stroke white, powder, down the dryer, onto the shirt? We've done multi-color before with the white blocking ink on ladies tops that had the shelf bras inside, mostly good results, this sounds much better...

Steve

[Gilligan]

Steve, I haven't tried it, but I can't imagine what would change that.

If you think about your layers, you have white then powder then shirt... why would what you put on top your white change any of that?

This is the white that comes with their transfer kit (that I used)... I don't think we've ever tried using a color with that powder... though, I'm certain Robert would be glad to answer any of those questions.

[aauusa]

with one strokes way I did not need any underbase for my numbers.  usually I would either have a white under base or double hit the color (print,flash,print, flash)

but all of these numbers are vegas first, flash then white, then powder and then dryer normal.

you can see on the number 1 which is very stretched and out of shape.  I pulled picked and all other things to get to to start to fail and nothing happened. the shirts is an Augusta 1020

the ink was one stroke colormax white and regular 480 vegas

[Gilligan]

That is the other benefit.  With the low temps 275 for the heat pressing you aren't going to get any bleeding... so bleed blockers aren't really needed if the ink is opaque enough.

[Sbrem]

Steve, I haven't tried it, but I can't imagine what would change that.

If you think about your layers, you have white then powder then shirt... why would what you put on top your white change any of that?

This is the white that comes with their transfer kit (that I used)... I don't think we've ever tried using a color with that powder... though, I'm certain Robert would be glad to answer any of those questions.

Let's say I had a red square with a white outline; the red prints, flashed, then the white, the powder and so on. When heat pressed, I end up with a red square with a white outline. I wouldn't put a color on top of the white; maybe I misstated. Anyway, it sounds very cool, I told the guys in the shop about it.

Steve

[Gilligan]

Yeah, should work.

I thought you meant as an underbase.