Tir-Blend Tactics

[GaryG]

Ok one thread mentioned antics with flashing them,
but how about your experience with everything from Spray Tack to
Mesh selection (with underbase) and top colors, or any other variables in between.
- Plastisol, plastisol....

Thanks Much!

[tonypep]

Waterbase, waterbase=no flash

[whitewater]

We make sure there is glue on everypart of the pallet..not just where the art is but everywhere. For us when the screen lifts up maybe there is static from the squeegee stroke and the shirt lifts up. Glue and we have to make sure the pallets are hot..watch the heat, we turn our flash way down too.

[ZooCity]

Waterbase, waterbase=no flash

=irrelevent if you need a bright color on, say, an AA tri-indigo

Same tack as everything else for tris here - TexTac, rolled on.  Whitewater's tip is excellent, keep the fabric down and don't let it get any closer to the flash.  Load collars off wherever possible.  In extremis, use a more narrow platen for any sizes that would put seams on the platen.

Ditto on mesh/ink/screen no big changes there from other fabrics although stroke pressure/angle/speed gets messed with.

Flash at lower power, longer v. high and fast.  Beware the change between one color of tri and another, some will light up real bad, others can take a normal amount of heat.  That's probably our main hassle with them- singeing a collar when the shirt colors in the run change.

[Inkworks]

Stuff that works for us:

We load up the platens with web adh. then flash/mist adh. and keep on it. It's touchy I agree.

For flashing on an auto use two flashes at a lower temp/time to spread it out a bit.