Printing WOW nightmare

[LoneWolf2]

Hey folks, so i'm having a hell of a time trying to print this job for some reason.
The order as of now is White/UB (2 stroke through 156 with ICC Legacy White), flash (6sec, red chili quartz), 338C green (rutland m3, 230 mesh), fluro yellow (rutland m3, 230 mesh), charcoal (random mix,200), light blue (m3, 230 mesh).
No cool down station as i'm indexing super slow since my dryer can't keep up.

I'm getting pretty bad sticking on the green color, and for some reason the yellow as well which is just causing all sorts of trouble once it gets to the charcoal screen.
Tried changing whites, no luck. tried changing both the greens and yellows, no luck. Indexed the colors manually and waited until everything was more than cooled off, and no luck. Switched out the print order where the light blue and charcoal were flipflopped, no luck.
Anyone have any clue as to what I can try to fix this? About a 900 piece order, so flashing every color isn't an option.

[blue moon]

you should not be getting any sticking on the first color. To me, that would be a problem with an underbase. Did you try flashing longer? Does the ink description say it's low tack?

I would also go with yellow before green (lower area and lighter color) and on an auto would go with higher mesh count.

pierre

[Printficient]

I would try the following print order.  Charcoal then base white.  Flash.  Yellow.  blue and green.  Proper order would be green then blue.  Your squeegees should go from slow to fast and more pressure to less.  If your flash is tacky and leaves no ink on your finger then you have OVER flashed the base.  Should feel like warm paper.  Give me a call and I can fine tune this for you.
404-895-1796

[starchild]

In the Legacy White manual they say high heat will cause it to become tacky.. So if you're flashing for 6 sec??

SPOT FLASHING
This product will spot dry, with a very low after flash tack. Dwell time is dependent on the spot dryer used. 
In some cases, you may have to lower the heat of the spot cure unit because too much heat may actually make the ink tacky.
When  you  spot  dry,  you  are  only  partially  fusing  or  gelling the  surface  of  the  ink.  The ink  should  just  be  dry  to  the touch, with no lift off, but not totally fused.  Totally fusing the underprint white may cause inter-coat adhesion problems with the inks printed on top of the white ink.  Final fusing or curing will occur in the dryer.

Forgot the link: http://www.iccink.com/pdfs/7014%20Legacy%20Wht%20Flyer.pdf

[IntegrityShirts]

Agree with Starchild, overflashed base. If your base plate is SUPER THICK it might add to the problem. You think you need more flash time to get that thick base "dry". If you have the ability/head space to run a top white you could run the base plate through a higher mesh, flash less and you definitely won't have that tacky stickyness.

[mimosatexas]

No top white?  It sounds like you are double hitting your base so you don't have to have a top white, but that means a thick base and stickiness is definitely likely.  On that color pink you can go with a pretty thin base without much issue, which should fix the sticking on your top colors, but you'll need a top white.

[Homer]

he also said FLO yellow..put that sucker last in line...

[jvanick]

No top white?  It sounds like you are double hitting your base so you don't have to have a top white, but that means a thick base and stickiness is definitely likely.

without fail, EVERYTIME we've tried to do WoW on top of a super thick base, we've had troubles with pickup.

-J

[mimosatexas]

Yea...

I do it on VERY rare occasions where it is like a 2 color print and the top color benefits from lots of halftones that I don't want to muddy with white.  Even those prints could definitely be done with a top white and using white halftones instead, but most of the runs where I do it are super small and the 3rd screen more or less makes it not worth it.  Plus the stickiness doesn't matter when there are no additional colors.  For a print like OP's I just cant see a thick base working...

[LoneWolf2]

Alright folks, I appreciate all the help. Ended up remedying the problem for the most part.
went from a double to single stroke on the white, lowered the flash to 4.5 seconds, then down to 4 once the pallets got warm.
Sped up the strokes on all heads
reordered the print to go white/flash/green/charcoal/yellow/blue.

Thanks for the help!

[rogerholien]

Curious how you like Legacy as an underbase? If you were impressed or not and what white do you prefer is not Legacy. Have a gallon and going to try it as underbase next week. Thanks!

[LoneWolf2]

Curious how you like Legacy as an underbase? If you were impressed or not and what white do you prefer is not Legacy. Have a gallon and going to try it as underbase next week. Thanks!

Love it. Have nothing but good things to say so far. It's performed very well on the garment dyed shirts that I print on alot (that are notorious for terrible bleeding as well).
Prints better than any white i've tried before, and covers much better. I've tried all of the following before, and the legacy is better: Wilflex amazing bright white, rutland snap white, ICC 711, Triangle glacier and phoenix white, numerous TexSource brand whites, and Meteor white.

[rogerholien]

Wow better than Phoenix is saying a lot. How would you compare it to QCM 158? One of my favorites! So easy to print and looks very white!

[Ross_S]

I'd print it yellow, red, green, then blue flash black and a highlight.  Up your mesh counts on your colors to 305's if you have them or a 270.

[Scobey Peterman]

Cool it off after flashing.