Air lines - Rapid Air or...

[IntegrityShirts]

What are your thoughts on Rapid Air quick connect systems? I'm only running one press but I use air for all sorts of things. 1/2" or 3/4" kit for a press? I can't tell if their measurements are inside diameter or not. Do their fittings neck down inside and restrict air flow? Or should I just run iron pipe haha?

[jvanick]

we ran the Rapid Air 3/4" for our press and no problems what-so-ever over a 100ft run.

drop lines for 'accessories' are all 1/2"...

follow the instructions, do a good job getting a straight cut, and deburr good, and you'll have no problems.

I'd definitely recommend the 3/4" tho for the press drop for the larger air flow capability...  they do have a cfm calculator on their site for # of fittings, length of run/etc.

-J

[Gilligan]

Rapid Air is pretty good.

I have suspended ceilings and it was kind of tough on the longer runs to get it up there as it's NOT very flexible.

I have a few leaks that I need to find, but nothing terrible.

[ZooCity]

I have part of our run with 3/4" rapid air.  The flexibility is nice.  I don't really like the compression fittings, seems like nearly as much work as fitting iron pipe and they cost an arm and a leg.  But if you need to snake the line around and need that flexibility it's hard to beat.  Rapid Air is just pex-al-pex.  If you know someone in the hydronic heating biz you could also just get a roll of that and some fittings through them. 

I also ran a lot of straight up 3/4" copper here.  Why?  It's cheap enough, it's locally available and you can just use sharkbite style fittings which is as easy as any of this gets.  Technically speaking you should use type L cu but the thinner walled (and cheaper) type M is probably fine for this application if it's up and away from where it might get hit by something.  In any case, both should be available at any building supply. 

Doing it again I would take the approach Dave/bimridder did and run huge rigid pipe, like 2-4" or more in a loop with 3/4 or 1/2 drops.  Doing this you have a giant "air tank" in your piping.  I bet it really balances out the air consumption and keep presses like all pneumatic ones from starving out for air when indexing and firing all heads.

Whatever you do, build a closed loop system. 

[LuckyFlyinROUSH]

Always go larger than you need. After so many feed your CFM will drop. We ran a 1.5" copper pipe throughout our shop with 3/4 drops from the ceiling: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodyear-Pneumatic-Mine-Hose-Coupled-Assembly-3-4-Inch-50-Ft-MSH075-50MM-G-/191204821127?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c84b20887

If your on the cheap I know a guy with three autos that swears by running all regular hose with fittings on each end. That's all he has in his shop.

[TCT]

I was at a guys shop with 4 autos and PVC ran throughout the whole place, doesn't mean it's a good idea though!

@Zoocity- are you saying the RapidAir stuff is basically PEX tubing? I had always thought/assumed/guessed it was very close, but always forgot to actually look into it(yes I am that low functioning). I have done all my water plumbing(I also own rental properties so there is a fair amount of this) with PEX for the last 5 years or so, and I don't think there is anything that would make me even think of changing. The fittings would have to be different, but the actual tube would be pennies on the dollar compared to the name brand RapidAir.

[jvanick]

it's pex - AL - pex... so it has an aluminum core.. pretty much the same as the in-floor heating tubes use... not the same as PEX like you get at the home-improvement store for running water lines.

PVC is not a great idea due to the risk of it exploding and creating shrapnel... 
My guess is that standard PEX would have the same issue...

Remember that as a comerical owner, if something happens and you're using a product that's not rated/intended for the use you're using it for and it causes someone to get seriously injured, it could be considered negligence, and your business insurance may or may not cover you.

[TCT]

My guess is that standard PEX would have the same issue...

I was kind of thinking that too, as I have seen the plumbing PEX rupture when it froze before.

Remember that as a comerical owner, if something happens and you're using a product that's not rated/intended for the use you're using it for and it causes someone to get seriously injured, it could be considered negligence, and your business insurance may or may not cover you.

I hear what you are saying, I was more interested so it could be talked about/looked into a bit more if there was any reason to the thought.

I have galvanized ran through our building, enough to probably send someone on a vacation if they brought it all to the scrap yard   Over time I have heard a leak or six. Would really like to replace chunks of it with RapidAir or the knock off, but those fittings are so damn expensive! Especially when 2 of the leaks are between the reserve tank and the chiller and that is a tangled mess! I'm guessing 6  90degree elbows and 4 "T's" fittings alone there would bankrupt me! 

[jvanick]

We have flex lines between the compressor, tank and chiller and where the chiller hooks up to the rapid air.. (3000psi rated hydraulic hoses)...