Author Topic: Case for the DC/UB  (Read 2439 times)

Offline tonypep

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Case for the DC/UB
« on: March 20, 2015, 01:15:49 PM »
Extremely PMS specific. Slightly flashing the base......one flash ... no bleeding with all those colors touching


Offline Itsa Little CrOoked

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2015, 02:01:32 PM »
I NEED to learn this.

I currently either do WB DC or plastisol and "never the twain shall meet". I just never have mixed the two and it's waaaay out of my comfort zone.

Does the plastisol adhere reliably to the (clear based) waterbased DC ink?

Is the mesh choice for the UB forgiving?

Is normal powdered ZFS used and at what ratios?

Can you print most any plastisol on top? Without modification?

Do you choke the Underbase?

Is a flash with exterior exhaust required?

Offline tonypep

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2015, 02:46:57 PM »
Yes
Yes, somewhat
Yes 6%
Yes
Yes
If you try white DC you will probablyfail

Offline Sbrem

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2015, 02:51:13 PM »
We've had good luck with this until recently,where we've had to replace a couple of orders. The top ink was coming off terribly in the wash...

Steve
I made a mistake once; I thought I was wrong about something; I wasn't

Offline blue moon

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2015, 02:55:08 PM »
either a cure issue or too much white in the ubase. 80% base, 20% (or less) white and follow Tony's recipe.

pierre
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Offline sqslabs

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2015, 03:03:16 PM »
Has anyone else had any issues with the plastisol colors getting lighter on top of a DC UB?  We haven't had enough of a color shift to bother our customers, but they definitely wouldn't fly for a Pantone match.  I'm using CCI U-Base w/ a 2 second flash.
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Offline mk162

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2015, 03:12:10 PM »
fyi, if you mess up and put too much white in the base, you can usually heat press them and solve the problem.  That is what we did on 400 tanks to save them...they passed the key scratch and wash test fine.

Offline tonypep

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2015, 03:17:26 PM »
oh and no on the exhaust flash

Offline Sbrem

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2015, 03:33:49 PM »
We were using Union's White UB, so we don't know the ratio. More testing, thanks for the guidance

Steve
I made a mistake once; I thought I was wrong about something; I wasn't

Offline ericheartsu

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2015, 03:38:42 PM »
we've been doing this for a long time, but started doing it more the past month or so. love it.
Night Owls
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Offline ZooCity

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2015, 05:00:18 PM »
We've had good luck with this until recently,where we've had to replace a couple of orders. The top ink was coming off terribly in the wash...

Steve

As mentioned, too much white/pig in the DC UB is likely culprit. 

Also, you need to drive the plasti top colors a little more than you would normally, the DC UB may try to keep it from getting a good mechanical bond around the fibers.  Not enough mechanical bond = washout.   A little extra pressure not only helps with that but will give the finished print a hand and effect that is darn close to straight discharge. 

As far as color/hue shifts, that can happen when DC UB causes the pigs in the plasti on top to migrate.  I believe wilflex actually makes PCs that are "non-migrating" but cost a ton.  We haven't experienced major issues with this yet. 

Offline brandon

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2015, 06:16:52 PM »
Discharge underbase works extremely well for sim process. That is all we do anymore. We have three different base formulas and using two underbases with different formulas you can get really cool results. It is awesome

Offline alan802

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2015, 06:20:27 PM »
I like the DC UB plastisol on top but we don't use it much these days.  I've done some testing comparing plastisol base against DC base and the opacity difference is enough to give the nod to plastisol and the difference in the hand of the print isn't enough to declare DC worth the extra effort.  With the use of specialized mesh counts we've been able to put down a very bright underbase with plastisol without having the ink deposit that traditionally goes/went with it so as it stands right now plasti UB's are the winner for us.  But having said that, this technique might end up being the "go-to" method for the majority of shops in the near future because of it's effectiveness.
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Offline Screened Gear

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2015, 07:54:57 PM »
Has anyone ever done DC/white mix the plastisol glow-in-the-dark?

On this one big job I do, to get it out faster I do a DC underbase, white, flash, then glow. It works great and with one flash its really fast. I just hate having to use 3 screens.

Honestly I do the plastisol on top to minimize the amount of glow the job needs. That stuff is not cheap. Local guy wants $100 a quart for the union stuff. I need a better option.

Offline ol man

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Re: Case for the DC/UB
« Reply #14 on: March 21, 2015, 10:18:32 PM »
Riddle me this - would not a longer flash help with color shift? If the discharging process is further along when the plastisol is initially printed, it would seem as though there would less of an effect on the pigments.