Poly printing problem

[AntonySharples]

We print a lot of poly, so we are pretty versed at running it, but I ran into a problem with the new camohex hoodies from Sanmar.  This stuff is bleeding through at 280-300 degrees.  Even under the flash.  Has anyone ran these yet?  Thinking of trying silicone ink, but wanted to see if anyone has tried that yet.

[noortrd]

Use water base.

[cleveprint]

those are sublimated i think. we've found the sublimated stuff to be hit or miss printing it. we got in a ton of it last year to test print (mainly the badger digital camo stuff). some colors worked great without an underbase. some colors bled no matter what we did. i feel like it has a lot to do with the dyes used. we were using wilflex performance white. usually has pretty good low bleed properties.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Use water base.

I didn't know water based inks would "stick" to polyester.

What brands do you use?

I rarely use straight water based due to poor opacity, but I use WB discharge quite a bit.

Stan

[AntonySharples]

those are sublimated i think. we've found the sublimated stuff to be hit or miss printing it. we got in a ton of it last year to test print (mainly the badger digital camo stuff). some colors worked great without an underbase. some colors bled no matter what we did. i feel like it has a lot to do with the dyes used. we were using wilflex performance white. usually has pretty good low bleed properties.

Same here.  I was told that the silicone ink should cure the problems, but having not actually seen it work on these types of garments, I am skeptical.  Silicone ink and the catalyst is very expensive to just try and see if someone has already been down that road.

As far as water base, the only water base I have seen that is good for poly is Virus.  Supposed to going out to California in March to meet with them at a demo.

[Denis Kolar]

those are sublimated i think. we've found the sublimated stuff to be hit or miss printing it. we got in a ton of it last year to test print (mainly the badger digital camo stuff). some colors worked great without an underbase. some colors bled no matter what we did. i feel like it has a lot to do with the dyes used. we were using wilflex performance white. usually has pretty good low bleed properties.

Same here.  I was told that the silicone ink should cure the problems, but having not actually seen it work on these types of garments, I am skeptical.  Silicone ink and the catalyst is very expensive to just try and see if someone has already been down that road.

As far as water base, the only water base I have seen that is good for poly is Virus.  Supposed to going out to California in March to meet with them at a demo.

Contact Rob Coleman from Nazdar Source One. They might send you a small sample of silicone ink. He is member here.
The ink is a bomb. Prints like a charm. I never printed in on sublimated garment tho.
Printed a few jobs on poly and they came out great.

[mk162]

OneStroke has a dye-sub blocking ink that is supposed to be crazy good.

[larryk]

We just got the sample pack from One Stroke of the poly block inks and the samples they sent with the ink look pretty good. Not real sure about laying a black underbase down but that is what they have. Hope to try it later this week. I'm pretty sure we have some garments around here that have had a bleeding problem.

[Rockers]

Use water base.

I didn't know water based inks would "stick" to polyester.

What brands do you use?

I rarely use straight water based due to poor opacity, but I use WB discharge quite a bit.
Stan

Matsui have a polyester and nylon suitable ink that cures at lower temp. and if you add their low cure additive  you can go even lower. Around 130 degrees Clesius if I remember that right.