Properly setting up Antec Lengend

[Gilligan]

As many of you guys probably know I just bought a used Antec Legend 6/4.

I'm gearing up to start using it and I'm curious as to proper ways to set it up.

Platens seem to have "adjustability" before you tighten them.  You can skew them or push them a little left or right.  This seems to be typical/nature of the beast.  Is there a "sure fire" way to make sure all your platens are setup properly? 

Also what about off contact?  These are rear clamps and of course the frame deflects causing it to lose off contact by the end of the screen when pressure is applied, but of course sits fine without pressure.  Again, is this nature of the beast and should I just roll with it or should I put something on the frame (like a nickel) as I was previously?  This is one more reason side clamps seem better.

Speaking of Side Clamps.  Antec of course "frowns upon" side clamps on their presses.  What is everyone else's opinions on this?  I could easily have some side clamps made for just the cost of material so it seems like a good idea but I know nothing about this stuff.

Hey, at least I'm allowing you guys to fill your forum with lots of content.

[screenxpress]

I can only address part of your post based on my Workhorse, which has a back clamp and as you noticed, deflection when you apply pressure pulling the squeegee. 

My solution for off contact has always been to cut up a couple of (free) yardsticks in about 12 inch lengths.  Then I simply tape one under each screen running left to right as far near the top as I can but so it will still hit the edge of the platen.  As long as the back offset is about 1/8 inch, the cut piece of yardstick will maintain the rest at 1/8 allowing, in my mind, a nice even off contact.  Pretty much similar to your nickels, but less trouble, IMO.

If the back dips below acceptable off contact, you can run one left to right near the back clamp so it still hits the back of the platen as well.

[Printhouse]

The antec legend does not have an adjustable off contact and screen pitch set up? 

[Shawn (EIP)]

Sounds like the way my RJennings is set up. Take a level and first make sure the base and center hub is level and then level  the platen arms , next draw a center line on all of your platens , next take a screen and clamp it into one of the print heads. Bring the screen down and sharpie a line on the front of the screen frame matching your center line on the first platen. Bring your screen down to each of the platens and adjust and tighten the platen arms to match the center line of the screen and the center line of your platen. When your finished your press should be lined up and level pretty well. RJennings is against side clamps as well, I forget his reasoning but I think it has something to do with the more bolted parts the more likely something will move out of registration over time not to mention making your print head heavier thus more strain on your springs and more work for your arms.

Also make sure not to overtighten your clamps or else you will increase the pitch of your screen.

Paint stick idea is great, it's what I use as well. Cutting out strips from a t-shirt box will work as well.

[Gilligan]

Thanks for all the advice... keep it coming, I'm learning lots!

My heads do have an off contact adjustment... bolt underneath the head right in front of where it slides into the bearing gate.  There is also a pitch as I understand it.  Should I be adjusting the pitch to compensate for flex in the frame?  That seems strange but if that's the way to go then I'll roll with it.

Here is a pic of one of my heads:

[jesterapparel]

I have one of these, in the manual it explains everything on how to put it together.
I would call Antec and have them send you one.  If not, feel free to call me.

[Nation03]

It's pretty simple to get the pallets on straight with the Legend. Since the pallet bracket is the same width of the pallet arm, I just slide the pallet into place, and then use both my hands to make sure the bracket is flush on both sides and then I tighten them up. Never had a problem with crooked prints. In terms of off contact, I have the newer heads with the two knobs that adjust the height, so I usually just put a screen in the head and lower it onto a pallet and then tweak the two knobs, as well as, the off contact setting underneath the head, until I get the screens off contact consistent throughout the pallet. I never need to tape anything in the front of a screen for off contact, I'm usually able to get the settings just right so the off contact is consistent from front to back.

As far as the side clamp debate goes, I'm not against or for them per say. I've printed with them before and it was way to heavy, but there was also M3 screens on the press so that may have had something to do with it also. I really don't think it's going to make a difference, registration wise.

[Denis Kolar]

Like Nation said, just make sure that the bottom of the bracket is flush with the arm. As for getting everything dialed in, you should start leveling from the bottom. Place the machine in the spot where you want it to sit (permanently), level the stand and then start leveling the arms and platens. Make sure that your pallets are at the same distance from the floor. Decide where you will be standing when printing, and do all of your finalizing touches from that spot.

Like you said, off contact is that bolt on the bottom and the middle adjusting bolt on the head. You have to loosen up the two bolts on the back of the head to adjust the off contact and pitch on the head.
Good luck.

[Frog]

Just a little note on rear vs. side clamps.
In days of yore, when most screens were wood framed, warping was much more common, side clamps especially desirable to help level them out, as well as take the strain off of the two rear corner joints., a common failure point.
Many also like the easy in/out adjustment available for things like name drops.

[Shawn (EIP)]

Just a little note on rear vs. side clamps.
In days of yore, when most screens were wood framed, warping was much more common, side clamps especially desirable to help level them out, as well as take the strain off of the two rear corner joints., a common failure point.
Many also like the easy in/out adjustment available for things like name drops.

I probably came off as a side clamp hater but I'm actualy looking into one for a second press , mainly so I can load bigger all round newmans since they are so hard to find with a sqaure bar. I have my eye on that Anatol "Thunder" or "Lightening".

[Gilligan]

Had some interesting times setting up a job last night.  Some heads were setup to kick the end way up.  Is this to level out the off contact with pressure?  Basically compensating for deflection of the head?

[Frog]

That could have been to compensate for some warped or bent screens. Or, don't discount the possibility that it could have been set up wrong.

[Gilligan]

Touché!

[Prosperi-Tees]

Just a little note on rear vs. side clamps.
In days of yore, when most screens were wood framed, warping was much more common, side clamps especially desirable to help level them out, as well as take the strain off of the two rear corner joints., a common failure point.
Many also like the easy in/out adjustment available for things like name drops.

I probably came off as a side clamp hater but I'm actualy looking into one for a second press , mainly so I can load bigger all round newmans since they are so hard to find with a sqaure bar. I have my eye on that Anatol "Thunder" or "Lightening".

I almost pulled the trigger on a 6/6 lightning. I think it is the best bang for the buck in manual presses out there. Pm me if you want to know what I was quoted for one as I dont think I should post in public.

[IntegrityShirts]

Had some interesting times setting up a job last night.  Some heads were setup to kick the end way up.  Is this to level out the off contact with pressure?  Basically compensating for deflection of the head?

You'll find that while setting up a job on the Antec it's usually necessary to have a wrench sitting on the press to set off contact for each screen.  Unless all your frames are exactly the same and were made perfectly flat.

When I put soft rubber tops on my mdf pallets I had to raise each head height and set off contact.  Once I had adjusted the head height, I had a pretty good method for making sure the rear clamp bracket was level side to side with the pallet by pushing one pallet back too far where the bottom of the clamp bracket would rest on the edge of the pallet.  With the two clamp bolts loosened you lower the head until it touches the edge of the pallet and tighten down the screen height bolts.  That way you know you didn't tweak it out of "side to side" level while tightening the bolts.

If that doesn't make sense I can snap a few pics.