DC ubase with Matsui? need formula

[blue moon]

We normally use the CCI stuff, but due to the cold weather I did not order it (thinking it would freez and cause problems, but was told otherwise by CCI rep). I will have to pick up some Matsui that's available at the local distributor and make it work. Since they offer different bases I am not sure what to use for an underbase. We would normally mix 20% white with 80% base.
What do we do with Matsui?
What about the additives? Do we need those?

any help would be appreciated, the job has to go on the press in few hours and I still have to run to the supplier. . .

pierre

[Orion]

You could reach out to Matsui rep Jessie Martinez for advice, 323 six seven nine 8179.

[mimosatexas]

When I do it, it is the 80/20 mix you mentioned, 4% activator premixed with water, 5%printgen and depending on the weather I might add some water.  I drill mix for UB to make absolutely sure it is evenly distributed etc.

[blue moon]

When I do it, it is the 80/20 mix you mentioned, 4% activator premixed with water, 5%printgen and depending on the weather I might add some water.  I drill mix for UB to make absolutely sure it is evenly distributed etc.

cool, which base and white are you using? regular or HM?

thanx,

pierre

[IntegrityShirts]

I treat it the same as CCI base. I have used Matsui's bright discharge base, 5-6% activator, 20% cci white DC or matsui white DC. If you get the BRIGHT discharge clear by matsui, you just might notice it's a little brighter than the same CCI combo.

[KevWilso]

The Matsui Brite Discharge Base mixed with the their discharge whites is a good way to go.  They have two white inks for discharge; HM White (High Mesh White formally known as DSFP White), and Brite White which is used for Lower mesh counts.  I have quite a few shops that mix 70/30 or 80/20 depending on what they are trying to achieve.  The Brite base will make it clear better, soak into the fabric, and also help prevent drying.  If you are still worried about drying you can pick up some print gen retarder to slow the drying even more, normally you only add about 1-3% to weight of the ink, it evaporates out when curing.

When activating you may want to start around 6% - 8% to weight, but the more you add the brighter it will be. 

[mimosatexas]

Not even sure what HM is...so I would assume regular brite dc base and brite dc white.  Is HM a relabeling of something?  I know they used to have something like a DSFP white, but I didn't use it.  It was significantly less brite.

I can't really find any info using Google on what the benefit/differences would be between brite and HM...anyone know?

edit: good to know Kevin!  I will just say that for UB I would use lower % of activator as it doesn't need to have the pop of a solid DC white, and the print will be better based on my experience.

[KevWilso]

HM White is the same product as DSFP.  Matsui renamed it to help make it more user friendly

HM White - for high mesh  (used to be called DSFP)
Bright White - Low mesh 

HM is runny white ink.

Brite White is like a really soft marshmallow cream. 

[TCT]

The bright discharge base is nice and BRIGHT! That was our go to for a while.