Ink Prep

[3Deep]

Full of questions today LOL, printed a job today with some white ink Homer sent me (Wilfex Sprint white) kind of stiff when I open it and stirring like a fool didn't break it down any more.  I added some cureable reducer to it and dam this stuff printed like a dream.  so my question is do you modify your inks before printing or just come straight out the bucket right on in the screen?

[Homer]

Full of questions today LOL, printed a job today with some white ink Homer sent me (Wilfex Sprint white) kind of stiff when I open it and stirring like a fool didn't break it down any more.  I added some cureable reducer to it and dam this stuff printed like a dream.  so my question is do you modify your inks before printing or just come straight out the bucket right on in the screen?

that's cuz I wizzed in the bucket first.


we never- ever modify white. to me, If I need to modify it to work in my shop, I chose the wrong ink or I'm doing something else wrong. Ink temperature is the biggest thing we deal with, but we have a heated ink room to handle that... for us, when ink isn't up to temp, I don't care what it is -that stuff can be a nightmare to work with. So we always check temps before making a decision on ink.

[Colin]

I will ONLY modify a white if I am looking for a specific effect.  Then I will document the ink and what it was used for.

Like Homer said -  The ink needs to be up around 80 degrees before I see what it will really do during full production. 

Remember:  Ink companies test the rheology of their inks at 72 degrees.

How old was the ink you got from Homer?  Inks can thicken up over time....

[3Deep]

It's been a year sitting on the ink rack I know, 80 degrees makes sense because I know once a  ink heats up during printing it works best, I hand stir my inks maybe using a drill to stir might be a better way to get them creamy....a heated ink room chit Homie you big time dog 

[Doug B]

  Sometimes other inks but never white with one exception. When I am putting down an
underbase with a 230, sometimes I will reduce it slightly.

[mimosatexas]

S-mesh 22S underbase unmodified master race checking in

[sqslabs]

We've starting cutting our house white (Miami Superior) with 20% One Stroke Production White and so far the results have been great.  The One Stroke is a long bodied ink and really adds great flood/printability to the Miami white, which can be a bit thick at times.  Thanks to Alan for the tip.

[jsheridan]

Stir it in the bucket first, add to the screen, flood, warm up the pallets, print 6 test shirts and into the run I go.

rarely modify whites other than making a gray base from quick white or adding some stretch additives for spandex blends.

[jvanick]

we underbase all the time with 180S, no modification to Quick White.  Only issue we have is for the really transparent colors getting a really OPAQUE white underbase.  Bright Yellow especially... in order to get that to print well we either run in revolver mode, or run 2 flashes with 2 base screens.

a rep brought by some Rutland Snap White a while back, and to get it to print well, we had to add some curable reducer...  Went right back to the Quick White and swore yet again to continue to stick with what works well for us.