R Jennings

[steve1coelho]

I have a 6 color Jennings press and was wondering if anyone had any tricks to set the off contact quicker

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

It may not be the "right" way, but I have a Hopkins Pro-Line 6/4 and I just tape some spacers under the outer edge of the screen frames.  You could use 1/8" Plexiglass or equivalent acrylic sheeting under BOTH ends of your screen frames to keep them nominally parallel to the platen. I don't usually use anything under the back ends. Paint stirring sticks are about right, and I've used them too.

[Fresh Baked Printing]

I've spoken to Roger Jennings himself (a few years ago) and he uses cardboard tapped to the frame.

BTW, I have all Jennings equipment.

[sweetts]

I have a 6 color as well. I purchased a piece of plexiglass for this. Get a perfectly square level frame, clamp it in and adjust based off the platen. You really need to level the base, then the arms so you can level and shim the platens. Once those are perfectly level then you can put the plexiglass on top of it and adjust the off contact. It seems like a lot but once it's all level you can use a bubble level to check everything.
So I adjusted the vertical bolts so the base of the frame clamp was 1/8 inch higher than platens, then I put in frame and adjusted the frame clamp up till I had the desired off contact on the out end, adjust the vertical bolts again and see where your at. It's a bit back and forth but set it once your done, when you do hoodies shim the bottom of the frame and put a piece of cardboard on the out end of the platen, ideal no practical yes sir. 

[Sbrem]

I've spoken to Roger Jennings himself (a few years ago) and he uses cardboard tapped to the frame.

BTW, I have all Jennings equipment.

That's what we did waaaayyyy back, until we got manuals with side clamps. It worked very well.

Steve

[steve1coelho]

Thanks for the info I have decided to put the Jennings press up for sale and i bought a 6/4 workhorse mach.

[sweetts]

How much did you get for it

[Frog]

Thanks for the info I have decided to put the Jennings press up for sale and i bought a 6/4 workhorse mach.

Actually, the Mach has a similar problem with off contact adjustment as it also produces pitch (cocking the screen and losing paralellness with the platen).
Hence, Roger's suggestions of shims may apply as well.Coincidentally, he covers this in the recent issue of Printwear.
Here's a link to the online version.
Article starts on page 94 in the online version (90 in print) This subject is on page 96

http://read.uberflip.com/i/453044

[steve1coelho]

Yes but workhorse and M&R have introduced a convenient way to adjust that where Rodger refuses to. I'm not saying this machine is bad but who wants to wrench on their press constantly when tool free is available.

[steve1coelho]

I haven't sold it yet

[Frog]

Well, no one has ever accused Roger of not being old school. 

[whitewater]

Wouldnt you just set the off contact once?  with the plexiglass? Only take prob 2 minutes.

The plexiglass does shirts and when you go to sweatshirts i taped a paint stick on the screen and viola, off contact for fleece.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Wouldnt you just set the off contact once?  with the plexiglass? Only take prob 2 minutes.

The plexiglass does shirts and when you go to sweatshirts i taped a paint stick on the screen and viola, off contact for fleece.

I'm with you on this.  I have a Hopkins 6-4 (Pro Line) that is definitely "Old School" but it is simple, effective and reliable as the sunrise. The design for the lower center bushing for the carousel was arguably of poor design, but I replaced mine with a flanged bearing made for Agriculture "disc" cultivators.

Once you get your off contact set for your normal platens (which was FAR more than a 2 minute job, for me anyway)  you can adjust simply with stirring sticks or whatever...front and rear. The Registration Gate "guides" are simple Hex Headed Cap Screws 3/8-16 X 1.5" made out of nylon. The nylon bolt ends are "sacrificial" in nature and simply slide against the lowering print head...a clinic on elegant simplicity. I grease them with a wax stick. It will outlast me. The upper carousel bushing is the only remaining area of concern. I oughta order a spare from BWM, but it's tapered and as such, adjustable for wear. Mine will hold registration virtually for EVER. Riley Hopkins actually owns a farm 25 minutes from my house. His wife happened into my shop one day a few years ago. I guess I'm a fan, sortof.

I've nothing whatever against the newer "hardware". But I've manually printed at shows and workshops with at least one new press I wouldn't take home for free.

I've never seen an R. Jennings press, but I've heard pallet deflection is nearly zero. That's a pretty big deal...if true.

I wish my recently acquired auto was as reliable as my old manual, but I'm gradually getting things all sorted.

[Shanarchy]

I think every pretty much covered your original question. But, I"ll also add that the off contact on this press was designed to be set and left alone. I feel this is how all presses are. Some have presses have tool-less off contact adjustments, but ideally you want all your heads to have the same exact off contact and be level. I think the quickest way to adjust off contact is to shim the screen as previously mentioned. It only takes an extra second when loading your screen.

I liked my Jennings a lot. I think the only 2 changes I would make to this press would be M&R style aluminum pallets (Roger is adamantly against aluminum pallets) and Vastex/Anatol/Antec style micros. I think you would then have the perfect manual press. The micros were the only thing I really didn't like when I had one.

[screenxpress]

It may not be the "right" way, but I have a Hopkins Pro-Line 6/4 and I just tape some spacers under the outer edge of the screen frames.  You could use 1/8" Plexiglass or equivalent acrylic sheeting under BOTH ends of your screen frames to keep them nominally parallel to the platen. I don't usually use anything under the back ends. Paint stirring sticks are about right, and I've used them too.

Amen.  It's what I always do to maintain off-contact when any flexing occurs, and it will. 

I use cut down pieces of plain old yardsticks, but think I'll check out the paint stirrers (tks).  Lately nobody is 'giving' away yardsticks, but paint stirrers are always free, lol.