Newman Roller Master vs Manual Stretching

[Logoman]

I am sure that the Roller Master does better stretching then the manual. Any input on how many Screens can be stretched with the Roller Master per hour on average. I have a Roller Master but only use it a couple of times a year so I am not real fast with it.

[jvanick]

I prefer our manual AcceleratorX over the RollerMaster...  the cams on the rollermaster tend to stick after a few months of use....

[jsheridan]

I just posted this in the other thread as it pertains to your question

With roller frames the two techniques used are the manual roll one tube at a time and the automatic pneumatic roller table that rolls all 4 tubes at once for instant stabilization.

When using the 1 tube method you are pulling the mesh in 4 different directions at different times, due to this you need to allow some time between initial tensioning to allow the mesh knuckles to flatten and stabilize. Before introducing the frame to production, it's better to re-tension 1 or 2 times after the initial tension/relax period bringing the tension up in stages. you'll have to work harden the screen with 3-5 more re-tension before the mesh completely stabilizes for daily production use.

With the all-at-once method using a special pneumatic table the mesh is pulled with equal force on all sides stabilizing the mesh almost instantly. You can bring the mesh up to 125% of the maximum tension on the first pull, lock all the bolts and put that frame into production immediately. The mesh will relax slightly, then after 2-3 more re-tensions the screen will last for years with minimal re-tension along the way.

As for the sticking tubes.. well yes they will get a little sticky sometimes after being in use for a couple years. It's metallurgy and alloys sitting in a bath of reclaim salts, its simply corrosion. So when you need to make a new frame, you clean it very good, loosen the bolts and using the big frame wrench, roll the tubes some, free things up before you put the panel in.

when re-tensioning on a roller master you only need to loosen a single roller at a time. Put the wrench heads on all 4 corners, turn on the air and slowly loosen one roller, increase the air a little and use the big hand wrench to roll the tube slightly to your desired tension level. Lock the tube and do the opposing roller (if you started with the long tube, do the short tube next)

[Gilligan]

We switched to Hix versions (now owned by Shurlok) because without a roller master racking was just too much of a pain.  So far we are pretty happy with the Hix versions (Retens).

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

We switched to Hix versions (now owned by Shurlok) because without a roller master racking was just too much of a pain.  So far we are pretty happy with the Hix versions (Retens).

Kevin, I'm curious about these. I don't want to hijack this thread, so I might just give you a jingle.

I looked into the Hix style frames a while back (while still 3 hours from me in Kansas at HIX) and decided the varying sizes of the assembled frames wasn't ideal for a Gauntlet's clamping system.

Do you have side clamps on your auto? Is there such a thing?

Stan

[Gilligan]

I have front and back... but I don't know if the difference would be that great.  We do have to slide the hangers here and there, but it's not a big deal.

[ABuffington]

I agree with John on the advantages of the table.  For me, using the roller master produces a better screen, with the mesh pulled square to the frame more accurately.  Keep a rubber mallet handy to tap the hex clamps that hook onto the cylinder.  For fine mesh or S mesh, it is very important to make sure the cylinders turn outward the same amount.  If only one turns the thread gets curved and presents a popping issue down line.  Tapping the clamps with a rubber mallet helps them pull evenly.  Shurloc is another speed saver.  Capturing the mesh is much faster so you can immediately begin stretching.  On thicker threads like T you can just flip the air switch on mesh below 200, however the better method is the stretch, relax, retension method to work harden the mesh a little.  On finer S mesh and higher mesh it pays to take up the tension via the control knobs so you can monitor how the cylinders are turning to equalize the amount of outward turn and fine tune the tension a little better.  I like dropping tension in the narrow direction of the screen by 1-2 newtons on S Mesh and high mesh counts since textile printers often have the squeegee right up to within an inch of the frame on jumbo prints.  The momentary tension as it prints can exceed max tension, especailly if the corners are not rounded off on the squeegee and higher than optimum off contact is used.

Al


Al

[bimmridder]

We use ours daily for stretching and retensioning as required. (actually we still use our Rheema table as the main ine, but have a Newman table, pluses and minuses for both in my opinion). One of the reasons I lie it so much is the consistency and ease of use. For basic meshes, I can train anyone to stretch a screen in five minutes (Oh yeah, 100% Shur-Loc panels, too). The finer meshes may take a little more care and training. I let another shop in town use my table to do up 100 new frames. They had panels and a lot of 110-156 mesh. Two guys did them in under four hours. This doesn't include finishing like taping and labeling. They probably didn't take the care I try to instill in my employees, but still, that was pretty darn fast. Enough of my rambling.