I just posted this in the other thread as it pertains to your question
With roller frames the two techniques used are the manual roll one tube at a time and the automatic pneumatic roller table that rolls all 4 tubes at once for instant stabilization.
When using the 1 tube method you are pulling the mesh in 4 different directions at different times, due to this you need to allow some time between initial tensioning to allow the mesh knuckles to flatten and stabilize. Before introducing the frame to production, it's better to re-tension 1 or 2 times after the initial tension/relax period bringing the tension up in stages. you'll have to work harden the screen with 3-5 more re-tension before the mesh completely stabilizes for daily production use.
With the all-at-once method using a special pneumatic table the mesh is pulled with equal force on all sides stabilizing the mesh almost instantly. You can bring the mesh up to 125% of the maximum tension on the first pull, lock all the bolts and put that frame into production immediately. The mesh will relax slightly, then after 2-3 more re-tensions the screen will last for years with minimal re-tension along the way.
As for the sticking tubes.. well yes they will get a little sticky sometimes after being in use for a couple years. It's metallurgy and alloys sitting in a bath of reclaim salts, its simply corrosion. So when you need to make a new frame, you clean it very good, loosen the bolts and using the big frame wrench, roll the tubes some, free things up before you put the panel in.
when re-tensioning on a roller master you only need to loosen a single roller at a time. Put the wrench heads on all 4 corners, turn on the air and slowly loosen one roller, increase the air a little and use the big hand wrench to roll the tube slightly to your desired tension level. Lock the tube and do the opposing roller (if you started with the long tube, do the short tube next)