Newman rollers vs Shur-loc 125 easy frames

[jsheridan]

Anyone on the starting newtons when stretched. How about after reclaiming a couple times?

Like GN stated, it's dependent on the mesh and the technique used to get the mesh to it's initial tension. The manufacturers specify what the optimum tension is for their mesh, check their website for the information or call them for tech questions.

With roller frames the two techniques used are the manual roll one tube at a time and the automatic pneumatic roller table that rolls all 4 tubes at once for instant stabilization.

When using the 1 tube method you are pulling the mesh in 4 different directions at different times, due to this you need to allow some time between initial tensioning to allow the mesh knuckles to flatten and stabilize. Before introducing the frame to production, it's better to re-tension 1 or 2 times after the initial tension/relax period bringing the tension up in stages. you'll have to work harden the screen with 3-5 more re-tension before the mesh completely stabilizes for daily production use.

With the all-at-once method using a special pneumatic table the mesh is pulled with equal force on all sides stabilizing the mesh almost instantly. You can bring the mesh up to 125% of the maximum tension on the first pull, lock all the bolts and put that frame into production immediately. The mesh will relax slightly, then after 2-3 more re-tensions the screen will last for years with minimal re-tension along the way.

[jsheridan]

I've been a pretty die hard newman guy for the last few years..... But with my coming expansion I'm needing around 800 screens in my inventory it's harder to justify that up front cost for the newmans.

The market is flooded with used frames in the $25-30 range, so go that route first and then fill in the holes later with new frames.

I know when you order more than 500 new frames, you have some wiggle room on price.

[islandtees]

Anyone on the starting newtons when stretched. How about after reclaiming a couple times?

Like GN stated, it's dependent on the mesh and the technique used to get the mesh to it's initial tension. The manufacturers specify what the optimum tension is for their mesh, check their website for the information or call them for tech questions.

With roller frames the two techniques used are the manual roll one tube at a time and the automatic pneumatic roller table that rolls all 4 tubes at once for instant stabilization.

When using the 1 tube method you are pulling the mesh in 4 different directions at different times, due to this you need to allow some time between initial tensioning to allow the mesh knuckles to flatten and stabilize. Before introducing the frame to production, it's better to re-tension 1 or 2 times after the initial tension/relax period bringing the tension up in stages. you'll have to work harden the screen with 3-5 more re-tension before the mesh completely stabilizes for daily production use.

With the all-at-once method using a special pneumatic table the mesh is pulled with equal force on all sides stabilizing the mesh almost instantly. You can bring the mesh up to 125% of the maximum tension on the first pull, lock all the bolts and put that frame into production immediately. The mesh will relax slightly, then after 2-3 more re-tensions the screen will last for years with minimal re-tension along the way.

Sorry, I should have specified I was talking about Easy Frames. I have M3 frames and understand the stretching tech on them.

[Sbrem]

First chance to check back since last night, and agree with Alan and John (maybe I took it slightly personally, but I did edit a couple of times before posting) I do see those benefits, but they don't show up here, probably because of the way we do things (ya think?) However, we are going through a number of changes to tighten up all of our processes and systems, and will probably revisit it all again, because quality printing always comes first, and anything that improves that without denting the bottom line is what we want to do. In the end, I guess the OP will have to do the testing to see if it works for him. And for what it matters, the best printing work I've seen was by Mark Coudray, with rollers at 25N; I'm not completely sold on the appreciable advantages of the extra 5, 10 or 15 Newtons...

Steve