Epson R1800 head moving but no ink on film

[StinkyDaddy]

My matt black cartridge was getting low and the light for ink started blinking. I tried one more film thinking I had enough ink to run another, but nothing on the film. I changed the cartridge and still no image. The head moves like it's printing, but the film is all clear. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, still nothing. Any thoughts?

[Dottonedan]

I am by no means experienced with your printer and just started tinkering with my own epson 3000  One thing that comes to mind tho, is that you indicated your ink light started flicking. I'll bet that should be a reminder next time, to stop, and replace ink before continuing. It might be that if it goes empty, the lines are empty...so nothing is going to come out, since there is air in the lines (I'm guessing).  The intent I believe, is to keep ink in the lines (keep it primed) so that you don't have issues when loading the new ink cartridge.


You may now, need to pull ink thru those lines to get it back up to printing. again, I'm guessing.

[Northland]

Have you tried running a cleaning cycle ??... to prime the heads...  it may take a couple of those.

[jsheridan]

It might be that if it goes empty, the lines are empty...so nothing is going to come out, since there is air in the lines (I'm guessing).  The intent I believe, is to keep ink in the lines (keep it primed) so that you don't have issues when loading the new ink cartridge.

There are no lines on the 1800. I had one myself. The 1800 uses cartridges that sit on top of the print head, 8 of them if I remember right. I removed all my carts and used refillable all black carts as I was using Accurip at the time.

You can run the carts dry on this model as I did it myself a few times. Once air gets into the head you it can dry and clog up. I used to use paper towels soaked in windex under the print head to help loosen stuff up. It takes a few cleanings to get it back.

If you're using all black and accurip, just turn that color off for a bit and try again later.

in the future, replace the ink cart sooner.

[StinkyDaddy]

Thanks for the input. I'm going to try the paper towels and windex.
jshridan, when you were using the refills which one did you use? I'm very low volume, and in the past I've also printed photos with the R1800 so I've been using oems. I don't really use it for photos anymore and I'm thinking about going that route. Any suggestions? I use florescent blacklights for exposure so I don't need super dense positives.   
Thanks.

[StinkyDaddy]

Cha Ching!
Windex on a paper towel did it.
Thanks again.

[Frog]

I use fluorescent blacklights for exposure so I don't need super dense positives.   
Thanks.

This statement scares me. Exposure is complete when the emulsion is completely cross linked. Whether that's 20 seconds with LED's, 60 seconds with MH, or two minutes or more with fluorescent tubes. You want dense, opaque films, and your 1800 should be perfectly capable of giving you that, one way or another, between printer settings, film, and ink.

[StinkyDaddy]

You're absolutely right. I should have been more clear. I only use the matte black cartridge for making my film. I get a good screen with QTX at 45 seconds on 230's. It is my understanding, which could be misguided, that folks who use the higher intensity lights need more dense positives and have the printer set up to use all six cartridges with black ink.

[jsheridan]

I only use the matte black cartridge for making my film.

Then this is your best solution,
http://www.filmoutputsolutions.com/product/JBINK180018ML

If you choose to make your printer all black and use accurip, then you can buy all 8 carts.
http://www.filmoutputsolutions.com/product/JBINK1800SET

This is jet black ink, the most opaque ink I've ever used. I was using high output unfiltered black light bulbs in my fluorescent exposure unit, and was holding 3% dots with diazo based emulsion on a 270 mesh from films out of from my R1800. Now it is dye based, so make sure the film you're using is dye compatible. Some waterproof films are not.

As for refillable carts, I found a set on ebay and then simply used the bulk jet black ink here
http://www.filmoutputsolutions.com/product/JBINK16OZ

Good luck bro, the 1800 is a really good machine.

[Frog]

...it is dye based, so make sure the film you're using is dye compatible. Some waterproof films are not.

Wow, not questioning this, but surprised. For years, I found that most clear "standard" films (now harder to find) were only surely compatible with dye based inks, while the milky "waterproof" films and their inherent higher d-min was the main choice for pigment ink users.

[jsheridan]

Wow, not questioning this, but surprised. For years, I found that most clear "standard" films (now harder to find) were only surely compatible with dye based inks, while the milky "waterproof" films and their inherent higher d-min was the main choice for pigment ink users.

Yes that is correct. I choose to use the clear film as it was thinner, and clear so it didn't block some light like the milky WP films do. The con was the dye runs when it gets wet.

However, some of the WP films do accept dye or pigments now.

StinkyDaddy, if you need the clear film or want to use it search here in the screen making section and you'll find numerous options for films.

[StinkyDaddy]

I've been using waterproof film. I think I'll do some reading on film/ink combos before I do anything.
Thanks for the info.