CCI Fox Red

[sqslabs]

Anyone have any experience with it yet? I have a tried and true Matsui red formula that I've been using for years, but if I never have to mix it again, I definitely won't complain.

Looking forward to getting this stuff on press tomorrow.

[blue moon]

very interested, let me know what you think!

pierre

[tonypep]

Named after a friend of mine.

[dirkdiggler]

and mine

[tonypep]

The problem with most PC discharge systems is that (typically) two or more PCs are required to achieve shades in the 185 to 200 range. Some may notice this with plastisol PC systems as well. It appears Gary has convinced his company to do the work for you. My guess is that you can tint/shade with PCs as needed within certain % loads. What would be better? Perhaps warm shade and cool shade versions.

[kingscreen]

We have been using it for a couple months.  It's a good red but we found it does lean on the fuchsia side a bit as it uses neon pigments.  We still use our house formula for a rich red but (Gary) Fox Red is an excellent RFU ink.  Just activate and go.  We used it on this year's Govathon tees.  Navy Tultex 0202.  It looked great.

Edit: The White is CCI D-White.

[Binkspot]

Maybe it's been answered somewhere else but why is it so hard to mix the reds, oranges and some other colors in WB and discharge. It's a constant struggle even using the the recipe provided to get a good match. With plastisol it's dead nuts on again and again, WB sometimes it's not even close.

[tonypep]

One answer: WB is transparent. It can contain up to 90% water. The more transparent, the more it can fool you. We make different DC bases for different purposes. A lot of formulas call for white PC which can also mud up deep shades. On the Indian Motorcycle Pinup print we used a variety of different bases and activator ratios. Interestingly enough we are currently making all new swatch books. Since we use a hybrid system using different products/manufacturers we can usually hit most colors with three or less ingredients (not including base and activator). The formulas are over a decade old and each time we make new books we look at simplifying the tricky ones.

[Parker 1]

Our biggest issue is that the red pigments and the activator do not play well together.  We may have it perfect on press and it blows the color out when washed or the hue changes on longer runs turning an orange or pink shade.  We have a very good recipe we used for the last month or so.  We finally got around to testing the Fox red but it did not wash well, due to too much activator, but with a little tweaking it will work. 

Chris

[ericheartsu]

I'm interested in why there is color fading after washes. This is something we've been investigating lately! How to get the print to remain vibrant after watches. especially on red prints.

[mimosatexas]

I'm going to pick some of this up asap.  I hate mixing reds...

I have found that lower activator is better, usually around 3% vs. the 6% for some other colors.

I haven't had much issue with fading after washing when adding matsui fixer.

[ol man]

 fox red to work well -- but irs on the orange side. for us
Our standard red mix- which works well for us- is 20 percent pigment load. out of that 80 percent warm red 20 percent rubine...4 percent zfs.

[tonypep]

Here is our go to red ( we have about 12) 17 year old formula using 2 pigs

[Gilligan]

What's the recipe Tony?

[tonypep]

Sorry that's a no can do