Permanent block out

[T Shirt Farmer]

I am needing info on permanently blocking out the edges of my frames as to not have to tape them. Any advice on materials and application is much appreciated. I have Sure lock Frames.

[Printficient]

Would not recommend it as you need to run a bead of blockout along the joint where the mesh meets the frame on the ink well side.  Also you would run a border all the way out to the outside edge of the frame on the substrate side.  Will make changing and retensioning the panels next to impossible.

[Homer]

get a larger scoop coater and CCI WB black out...no tape needed....we haven't used tape in a long time..

[Gilligan]

Is that with your panels Homer?

[T Shirt Farmer]

get a larger scoop coater and CCI WB black out...no tape needed....we haven't used tape in a long time..

Are you  exposing-washing-drying-apply blockout- dry... if so I am trying to avoid the last 2 steps as the block out can take awhile to dry.

[ebscreen]

I think what many people end up using is a lacquer based adhesive, similar to what's used on stretch and glues,
the good ones anyways.

Robert, Creative Screen Technologies in San Leandro might be able to get you there. They use a red colored glue that's pretty
awesome.

[Homer]

get a larger scoop coater and CCI WB black out...no tape needed....we haven't used tape in a long time..

Are you  exposing-washing-drying-apply blockout- dry... if so I am trying to avoid the last 2 steps as the block out can take awhile to dry.

FPU --> expose --> develop -->  wipe both sides with my windshield wiper/homemade screen squeegie -->on to a screen rack with fans --> block out --> back on the rack --> dry in about ten minutes...

I tried a few ways of skipping steps too and you know what I found? my scheduling was flaud... It's not a screens problem it's not dry, it should be shot at least a day or two before it's needed. Proper scheduling is KEY....I have made some drastic changes in my system and screens are now done days in advance with proper time to dry, which equates to a better /stronger stencil in my opinion. We don't print screens the day they are shot and we also don't schedule to print jobs the day they are to arrive on UPS....it was chaos when we did that but we have a handle on it now.

we tried some kiwo permanent block out, the theory was there but the execution was horrendous  -again, just my shops experience.

[tonypep]

Care with execution is critical or you'll wind up re-stretching. The slightest bead can ruin the coating procedure

[T Shirt Farmer]

get a larger scoop coater and CCI WB black out...no tape needed....we haven't used tape in a long time..

Are you  exposing-washing-drying-apply blockout- dry... if so I am trying to avoid the last 2 steps as the block out can take awhile to dry.

FPU --> expose --> develop -->  wipe both sides with my windshield wiper/homemade screen squeegie -->on to a screen rack with fans --> block out --> back on the rack --> dry in about ten minutes...

I tried a few ways of skipping steps too and you know what I found? my scheduling was flaud... It's not a screens problem it's not dry, it should be shot at least a day or two before it's needed. Proper scheduling is KEY....I have made some drastic changes in my system and screens are now done days in advance with proper time to dry, which equates to a better /stronger stencil in my opinion. We don't print screens the day they are shot and we also don't schedule to print jobs the day they are to arrive on UPS....it was chaos when we did that but we have a handle on it now.

we tried some kiwo permanent block out, the theory was there but the execution was horrendous  -again, just my shops experience.

Homer

your scheduling comments are spot on in every way.. our challenge is we specialize in corporate event rush orders and 3-5 day turn is what we do and often are pushed to the edge of the time line.

[T Shirt Farmer]

Care with execution is critical or you'll wind up re-stretching. The slightest bead can ruin the coating procedure

Tony that is exactly what my concern is and have found no information on a good procedure to accurately apply, I have 200 frames so I need a good method.

[Homer]

I would first suggest a wider scoop coater and see where that leads, if you use winged flood bars, you may find you don't need any tape or block out at all...we roll that way too. only jobs we use block out on are water based / discharge jobs..plastisol - no block out at all....

[TCT]

We have used screen stretching glue before but had a couple drips like Tony mentioned, which makes it kind of a pain. I never tried this out but have thought about it, need to try it out but what do you guys think-

Using a very small scoop coater(3" maybe) coat the outside areas you want blocked out and then expose and apply permanent hardener. Could even get a different color emulsion so it was easy to make sure you were overlapping properly.

Also thought about applying the adhesive with a small(3" again) paint roller.

What do you guys think?

[ebscreen]

In the opposite direction, use a slightly smaller scoop coater than your standard size, coat and expose the screen, apply permanent plockout around the edges, overlapping exposed emulsion a bit, then reclaim the screen. Would eliminate any edge from applying the blockout.