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Topic: steel frames (Read 1645 times)
Sbrem
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 6055
steel frames
«
on:
December 04, 2014, 02:13:27 PM »
We've been having some problems for the last couple of years with mesh not sticking to steel frames that we've had for years, have always used cyano acrylate glue, we grind and clean them, and still have problems. I know there was a thread a week or two ago relative to this, but can't find it. So, what do folks like for an alternative?
Steve
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Frog
Administrator
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 13980
Docendo discimus
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #1 on:
December 04, 2014, 02:37:46 PM »
The other choice is lacquer based adhesives, probably similar to what some also use as permanent block-out
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shurloc
Full Member
Posts: 188
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #2 on:
December 04, 2014, 06:13:46 PM »
I just have to ask, when using steel tubing for frames, what sort of wall thickness are you using to keep them light enough to use?
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Sbrem
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 6055
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #3 on:
December 05, 2014, 09:25:37 AM »
We're in the town, in fact, a mile away, from the Dennison Mfg. plant, now Avery Dennison (it's not a factory anymore) that was one of 2 lifeblood factories that kept thousands employed. (the other was GM) When they closed down production, we were able to get a couple hundred steel frames that they had manufactured for a labeling operation they had. They are 17" x 23", fine for manual press work. They weight mostly around 3 lbs., but there a couple that are closer to 5 lbs. This is important, they were free. They also have "lips" on the ends for being mounted on the presses they were originally designed for. Anyway, mesh has been popping on them at a much higher rate than we like, so we're wondering if anyone has a particular glue their fond of, so to speak...
Steve
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tonypep
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 5683
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #4 on:
December 05, 2014, 09:44:13 AM »
Yes lacquer is best. Slower but better. Hand grinding will cause dips and can be problematic no matter what glue is used; especially over time. Spotcolor has a machine for just this purpose that also roughs them up for better adhesion
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tpepitone@jnjapparel.net
Sbrem
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 6055
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #5 on:
December 05, 2014, 09:54:10 AM »
A metal planer of sorts I would imagine... yes, they've been hand ground a number of times, which I mentioned to my screen guy, and they probably are uneven, which of course would cause the issue no matter the glue. Thanks again, Tony...
Steve
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tonypep
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 5683
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #6 on:
December 05, 2014, 10:17:50 AM »
A local machine shop could probably fix that. I've also used sand blasting companies.
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tpepitone@jnjapparel.net
mk162
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 7858
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #7 on:
December 05, 2014, 03:58:27 PM »
at what point do you just start buying new aluminum pre-stretched frames? GM Graphics and Xenon screens are priced at a level that hardly makes sense spending a ton of time on refurbing frames.
Just a thought.
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Sbrem
Ludicrous Speed Member
Posts: 6055
Re: steel frames
«
Reply #8 on:
December 06, 2014, 09:17:19 AM »
Actually, we've bought quite a few pre-stretched; we're a little old school, we like stretching frames that we already own, especially since we have the equipment that we've had for years; an M&R Blue Max that I picked up at an auction for $250.00, bolts of fabric hanging around, and, the manual press operators just love these frames. We've started converting a lot of statics to EZ Frames, plus just ordered a batch of the 1.25 EZ Frames, so we're catching up. Thanks for all the responses, we'll check out some of the lacquer adhesives. Have a good weekend everyone.
Steve
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