Dip Tank Chems?

[kingscreen]

Anyone running ER80?

We do.  It works great.  We do "charge" the tank every morning with a small splash. 

[Gilligan]

Anyone running ER80?

We do.  It works great.  We do "charge" the tank every morning with a small splash.

Just a "wild" assumption, but I bet you go through more screens than we do.

We do TOPS 20 a week. LOL

[kingscreen]

Anyone running ER80?

We do.  It works great.  We do "charge" the tank every morning with a small splash.

Just a "wild" assumption, but I bet you go through more screens than we do.

We do TOPS 20 a week. LOL

Correct.  We reclaim 20-30 screens per day.

[screenprintguy]

We've been using Kor-Chem CP1 used to be called complete. Out of all the popular tank chems it's had the longest life for us. Awesome inexpensive stuff. SPA sells it as their inhouse SPA brand. We usually drain the tank down every 2 -3 weeks, let the big hunk of sludge fall onto some plastic outside, let that harden in the sun, wash the tank out, re-fill it with the original chems and top it off. We are well over 14 months right now on the original chems. The last one I tried besides this was CCI, it lasted 3 weeks. Was a waste of money. Back to Kor-Chem and rockin.

[Gilligan]

This stuff?

http://www.screenprocess.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SPAERCON&CartID=1

[screenprintguy]

They call ink SPA ink/emulsion remover for diptank. http://www.screenprocess.com/product-p/spaier.htm If you tell them KorChem CP2 it used to be called complete now it's been enhanced and renamed to CP2. Tanner got us using it a few years and it's knocked every other popular one out of the block, especially how long it lasts

[Gilligan]

That is cheap!

What ratio do you use?

[Gilligan]

Also, do you clean your ink out in a booth before dropping them in the tank or do you go with the tank for both?

[screenprintguy]

he system we have put in place is currently all in one booth. I've come up with a home made 4 stage filtering system so that our exhausting water is about as clean as it can get. My guy will take a carded off screen, still having the tape from the job on it into the booth, few sprays of Franmar Beeniedoo, lightly works that into the ink which is awesome stuff turns it into really easy to rinse liquid. Sprays it down with the pressure washer, peels the tape. Tape comes off easier doing it in this way, plus, we aren't throwing wet plastisol that is on the tape in the garbage. That mess all ends up in the filters. He will usually do a stack of 40 screens like that. Then use CCI pink stuff to scrub the booth, which also degreases it. Then starts at the beginning of that stack 2 at a time in the diptank. I have a video that I can send you that someone asked me to make for them showing the tank, the drip rail and the filter system in action. It works very efficient, very affordable, and our screens are very clean. After the rinse off from the dip tank, we use a gently scrubbing of CCI pink stuff for final clean and degreasing, rinse and rack. Since we went to this system he must be at a 1 out of every 100 screens with fisheye coating with Chromablue emulsion. Not bad. When we used all the other spray on products, I think they get all over the walls and the roof of the booth and drip when you can't see it and cause problems. I like the pink stuff paste, for us. Having the ink off of the screens before the tank also let's that juice last longer. When that gunk sits at the bottom of the tank, the chems are always reacting with it and die out faster. That's another reason why I have him drain it ever 2-3 weeks to dump the gunk out. I won't name other products, but if it's a popular one for the tank, we've tried it and none of them last as long as this stuff has for us. Hope this helps.

Mike

[Inkworks]

Also, do you clean your ink out in a booth before dropping them in the tank or do you go with the tank for both?

The million dollar question. If you're washing the ink off first then the dip tank is just a really expensive way to apply emulsion remover....

[Gilligan]

Thanks Mike!

Yeah, inkworks, that's kind of true... but I'm betting in the long run it's cheaper and less time consuming.  I will be putting my money where my mouth is on that bet soon as we are about to do that.

I've heard nearly everyone say they do it this way because it makes the chemicals last longer.

[IntegrityShirts]

We've been using Kor-Chem CP1 used to be called complete. Out of all the popular tank chems it's had the longest life for us. Awesome inexpensive stuff. SPA sells it as their inhouse SPA brand. We usually drain the tank down every 2 -3 weeks, let the big hunk of sludge fall onto some plastic outside, let that harden in the sun, wash the tank out, re-fill it with the original chems and top it off. We are well over 14 months right now on the original chems. The last one I tried besides this was CCI, it lasted 3 weeks. Was a waste of money. Back to Kor-Chem and rockin.

I use korchem complete too and agree it lasts waaaay longer than supra or franmar. I need to transfer mine into another tank because the sludge on the bottom is getting all over the rollers on my frames. Never had this problem before because the fluid has never lasted this long!

[screenprintguy]

If you build a drip rail, you will use lesssssssss chem vs spraying it down the drain.  We rack 2 frames on the rail, the Chem runs back in the tank. The top off is minimal vs spraying.  We used spray method for 5 years before going this route and use way less Chem now. While 2 drip down the rail,  2 more go in the tank,  2 being cleaned in the booth. Nice efficient loop taken from Mr. Greg Kitson.