Pallet Rubber Replacement

[SteveS]

So just how difficult is getting the old nasty rubber off an aluminum pallet? I have 10 each 16"x22" pallets that desperately need new rubber. Anyone care to share any tips or insights on how best to accomplish this task? I'm finding it hard to swallow buying brand new pallets for $145-$160.

I saw an old classified ad where Action wanted to trade printed shirts for some new pallets. I'd jump all over that deal if they still wanted to do that.

Otherwise, I think I just need to try and do it myself.

Anyone?

[sqslabs]

It's really not tough at all, depending on the adhesive.  Most of the pallets I've resurfaced have had the green 3M high-temp adhesive, and with a bit of heat (sometimes not even required), the rubber will usually just pull right off.  Once you've gotten the rubber off, let any adhesive remover soak into the glue for a few minutes and it will wipe right off.  I'm in the midst of resurfacing 30-40 pallets and used ICC on press wash for the majority of the adhesive removing and cleaning, and they look like new.

In the meantime, order either adhesive backed or standard rubber from a supplier.  I get mine through Action, and usually go with the standard rubber to save some money although I'd imagine the adhesive backed makes the final step much easier.  If you go the standard route, order a quart or two of the high temp adhesive when you order the rubber.  Clean the pallets and rubber well (I use methyl ethyl ketone) before applying the glue to the pallet and apply to the back of the rubber at the same time.  Let them sit for a minute or so (being mindful that this stuff dries quick) and then hold the pallet vertical at the end of the rubber and slam it down so the glue meets the glue.  Put some weight on the back and let it sit for a bit before cutting around the pallet.

Tonypep recently mentioned sanding the edges smooth afterward which is a great tip and helps eliminate pressure marks on your garments.

Also, after typing all this I remembered that action has downloadable instructions for application on their website, which you can find here:

http://www.actionengineering.com/dsn/wwwactionengineeringcom/Content/Soft%20Top%20Instructions.pdf

On a side note, I recently ran into 6 pallets that used a tan adhesive and that stuff does not want to come off the pallet.  It was tough enough to get the rubber off (ended up requiring lots of heat), but I'm still stumped on how to get the glue removed.  So if anyone has any tips on that, please feel free to chime in.

[SteveS]

What is a good adhesive remover and where would I find it? These pallets on this Sportsman were not cared for very well and I have residual pallet tape that is being stubborn and not easily removed.

Same for the Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Where can I find that stuff?

Sorry to sound so ignorant but I'm no Walter White chemist for a far stretch. Your advice is greatly appreciated.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Any real paint store will have what you are looking for.

[Frog]

MEK is in most of our hardware stores

[tonypep]

Action has the self adhesive material. More expensive of course but definitely worth it.

[SteveS]

I'm just nervous about starting this process and finding out after I've completely ruined the rubber that it's going to be much more of a process than I planned on and ultimately having the press taken out of service while I figure out what to do. I can handle a day without the press but if for some reason that old rubber doesn't cooperate and takes me 2 or 3 days to get all ten cleaned and prepped, I'll have to answer to my production scheduler......my wife! I'm so not wanting to rattle that cage.

Let me ask this.....if we can assume that these are original M&R pallets from 2006 manufacture, what are the odds this rubber will pretty easily come off? They were used with radiant panel flashes so there is no telling how many times they have been overheated?

Anyone want to warrant a no recourse reply?

[Croft]

I have an 05 m&R press it comes off fine, for the glue once you open the can its done ,I have done it twice and sealed the can well but by the time I needed to do again the glue was not usable .
 I sanded the edges especially the back corners of mine with a belt sander it helps with taking shirts off as well.

Mak VERY SURE there is no contaminate on the platen or in the glue before you lay the rubber down so that the surface is absolutely flat.

For me I buy the glue at Fastenal and the rubber at a local rubber supplier.

[tonypep]

Wait what? Press out of service because of platens? Never. Get the replacement self adhesive rubber. Over heat the pallets and peel; paint scraper can help (gloves pls). Clean leftover adhesive with non grease solvent as needed. Re-apply and sit overnight (weighted). Trim in the morning. Done. Its how its been done for decades.

[SteveS]

Is the MEK chemical that you guys refer to the adhesive remover to clean the aluminum or is it something else?

[blue moon]

Buy one extra pallet and rotate in and out. Never hurts to have an extra one for many reasons.

Pierrre

[sqslabs]

Is the MEK chemical that you guys refer to the adhesive remover to clean the aluminum or is it something else?

MEK is used only for final cleaning of the pallets, immediately before the new adhesive is applied.  For old adhesive remover, you can use anything like Goo-Gone, Goof-Off, Franmar Icky Sticky Unstuck, or most on press color swap chemicals will work as well.  I found ICC 926 to work better than the hardware store stuff I tried, and can be purchased at any screen print supply that carries ICC chemicals.

[mooseman]

If you have metal pallets
scrape up the old rubber with a paint scraper, a heat gun or your flash will help soften the adhesive.
Once the rubber is off forget the MEK, use lacquer thinner from Lowes orw wallyworld
http://www.lowes.com/pd_206496-34228-CR.LT40.M.01_0__?productId=4744981&Ntt=lacquer+thinner&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dlacquer%2Bthinner&facetInfo=

once the pallets are clean and you have new rubber use CONTACT CEMENT
 http://www.lowes.com/pd_142569-68-00272_0__?productId=3819177&Ntt=contact+cement&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcontact%2Bcement&facetInfo=

same stuff but non-flammable and low VOC
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=48&SubcatID=8

follow the instructions on the can it works fine and holds like iron.

either type will work well but the red can has more grab but is a little harder to apply.

Ok how to bring it all together, see this video on applying formica counter top , the gig is exactly the same
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trDIjqCP6HY

 it works EXACTLY  the same for the rubber BUT you will need more dowels or similar as the rubber will sag and touch the pallet if you use just 3 or 4 dowels. Once the rubber hits the pallet (so to speak) it is STUCK so support it well while you position it. You migfht even think about using a teflon sheet from your heat press instead of the dowels and slide the sheet out little at a time as you stick down the rubber from one end to the other.

This is a pretty easy process actually you just have to remember once the coated rubber touches the coated pallet it is going to stay where you put it there is no opportunity to reposition that is why you need the dowels or seperator sheet of teflon.
Hope this helps...........
mooseman





 

[Croft]

I often wondered if contact cement would work

[Frog]

I often wondered if contact cement would work

Although, I too have used regular contact cement the one time I added rubber tops, I have to think that the high temp stuff holds up better to flashing.
Moose, you have no issues with the bond weakening?