screen printing > Newbie

Will white (low bleed) ink typically be heavy/thick?

(1/3) > >>

Gilligan:
Sorry for all the Newbie questions, but hey, you guys created this section. :p

So I have been doing test prints for my 50/50 Navy shirts/hoodies.  I'm using Rutland ML9232 Maximum Plus White.

I've tried various techniques, including trying Bill Hood's "One Hit White" and obviously I'm not doing it right.  I get decent coverage but still in need of a flash and 2nd print.

Either way, no matter what I do I seem to have a pretty thick layer of ink.  I personally wouldn't be satisfied, but that might just be the nature of the beast?

I haven't got any dye migration, but I've only tested on some of my own old shirts... would being washed shirts keep dye migration from happening or am I just that good?  Even printed on a fairly new (maybe washed 3 or 4 times) ROYAL blue 50/50 that I printed on about 6 times and cured at various times and even TRIED to over cure it.  Washed it and it still all looks good (been about 12 hours now).

Frog:
I can't answer for your Rutland, but the low bleeds (IC 774 and Xenon Regular White) I presently have are not especially thick.
On t's, I tend to use higher mesh, 160 and p-f-p. On a fleece only job, I may go down to 110, still p-f-p, especially if there are large areas to cover.

Tighter mesh will allow you to deposit more ink on the surface rather than driving it in, resulting in less total deposit, and a softer feel. White plastisol however, will probably never give you the same hand as based down darks.

Be warned, your dye migration can take as much as two weeks to rear it's ugly head. There is a method for speeding up this possible reaction with heat, and checking this, but I'll be darned if I can find the particulars right now.

Be warned also that different colors, different shirts, and even different dye lots can all behave...you guessed it...differently!

mooseman:
we find that we can reduce the bullet proof thickness of white ink by kinda printing them backwards....OK i will explain and remember my world spins in a different direction than most but as long as you are screwing around......take a walk on the wild side

We also PFP there is no such thing in our shop as a single hit white that we like.

Try print , flash and instaed of allowing the shirt to travel around the press to cool down print next station right after flash.
You will find the first print is tacky and the soak-in heat from the shirt will nicely thin the second hit making that print real smooth and easy. We get a nice two hit white with a pretty smooth medium hand and after a few shirts the ink really moves nicely through the screen. we tryically use 155's at 40 Nm.
And yes there are risks letting your ink get warm , hot in the screen or whatever. I will get gang banged for even mentioning this but at the end of the day this is all about technique with a healthy helping of rebellion thrown in for good measure.

mooseman

Gilligan:
I don't have a carosel so I do just that anyway... granted I'm probably slow enough that it cools down enough.

Oh, and I'm using 158 mesh.

Printficient:
Hate to disagree with the Mooseman, but ig the ink is tacky it is TOO HOT.  You want it dry yo the touch not tacky.  Mike (Mooseman) hope all is well.  I'll call you this week.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page