Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
A customer supplied us with some sublimated soccer jerseys to add some logos/numbers to. The front has a plastic type patch which I was concerned about so I put one through the dryer and the patch got shiny and a bit distorted. No problem, I put another through and folded the shirt in half so the patch was inside. When it came out of the dryer the patch was fine, but the sublimated design had now appeared on the bottom part of the jersey, ruining it. Here's the jersey for reference:http://www.bbdsports.com/germany-soccer-jerseyWith that jersey now toast, I'm trying to figure out how to print the sleeves and back of these things, as well as apply numbers via heat press, while keeping the sublimated part of the jersey in tact and away from the rest. So far all I've come up with is placing them face down on a towel as they go through the dryer, keeping the heat away from the patch and limiting the sublimation issue. I have no idea how I'll apply the numbers as I'm concerned the sublimation will bleed through to the back.I am using standard inks on these so my dryer temps are standard, and if it would help with the screen printed part to get low temp inks I'd be willing to. This is for a VIP client and more of a favor than a money making job. Any and all ideas/tips/shared experience would be greatly appreciated.
This might be an application where low cure temp silicone inks are an option. Please PM me or Rob Coleman with your contact and shipping information if you would like to get a sample to try out.
Best thing you can do all around is lower all cure temps. Wilflex Epic Performance for the print. This is one of the big reasons we went with the PC system, we can mix a little pint of some Performance color if needed. Cures at 290˚F, should be well enough away from the temp at which it will re-sublimate but it will depend on the garment and exactly how it was dye sublimated initially. Best practice is to UB with the Grey Blocker (just kidding that stuff is actually unprintable, mix it up with some of the white and add 1-2% viscosity buster), white over that if needed and then go to colors. For the transfers, Stahls has some cad cut options and I want to say even some printed options specifically designed to block dye sub from migrating into it when pressing onto dye subbed fabrics.
Sublimate em' give me a pm. My buddy owns one of the best Cycliing jersey companies in the states. He's sent papers to me to test stuff works awesome
A normal dryer should not get hot enough to cause that as far as I know. You can always include laundering instructions to protect yourself though
Last question.. In cases like this, can Nylobond be used as a low-cure additive?
Are you printing on Nylon?Why don't you get a real "low Cure"additive?Do you have a heat press? Heat press the vinyl and be done with it.