Printing on Sublimated Jerseys

[sqslabs]

A customer supplied us with some sublimated soccer jerseys to add some logos/numbers to.  The front has a plastic type patch which I was concerned about so I put one through the dryer and the patch got shiny and a bit distorted.  No problem, I put another through and folded the shirt in half so the patch was inside.  When it came out of the dryer the patch was fine, but the sublimated design had now appeared on the bottom part of the jersey, ruining it.  Here's the jersey for reference:

http://www.bbdsports.com/germany-soccer-jersey

With that jersey now toast, I'm trying to figure out how to print the sleeves and back of these things, as well as apply numbers via heat press, while keeping the sublimated part of the jersey in tact and away from the rest.  So far all I've come up with is placing them face down on a towel as they go through the dryer, keeping the heat away from the patch and limiting the sublimation issue.  I have no idea how I'll apply the numbers as I'm concerned the sublimation will bleed through to the back.

I am using standard inks on these so my dryer temps are standard, and if it would help with the screen printed part to get low temp inks I'd be willing to.  This is for a VIP client and more of a favor than a money making job.  Any and all ideas/tips/shared experience would be greatly appreciated.

[pwalsh]

A customer supplied us with some sublimated soccer jerseys to add some logos/numbers to.  The front has a plastic type patch which I was concerned about so I put one through the dryer and the patch got shiny and a bit distorted.  No problem, I put another through and folded the shirt in half so the patch was inside.  When it came out of the dryer the patch was fine, but the sublimated design had now appeared on the bottom part of the jersey, ruining it.  Here's the jersey for reference:

http://www.bbdsports.com/germany-soccer-jersey

With that jersey now toast, I'm trying to figure out how to print the sleeves and back of these things, as well as apply numbers via heat press, while keeping the sublimated part of the jersey in tact and away from the rest.  So far all I've come up with is placing them face down on a towel as they go through the dryer, keeping the heat away from the patch and limiting the sublimation issue.  I have no idea how I'll apply the numbers as I'm concerned the sublimation will bleed through to the back.

I am using standard inks on these so my dryer temps are standard, and if it would help with the screen printed part to get low temp inks I'd be willing to.  This is for a VIP client and more of a favor than a money making job.  Any and all ideas/tips/shared experience would be greatly appreciated.

This might be an application where low cure temp silicone inks are an option.  Please PM me or Rob Coleman with your contact and shipping information if you would like to get a sample to try out.

[ZooCity]

Best thing you can do all around is lower all cure temps.

Wilflex Epic Performance for the print.  This is one of the big reasons we went with the PC system, we can mix a little pint of some Performance color if needed.  Cures at 290˚F, should be well enough away from the temp at which it will re-sublimate but it will depend on the garment and exactly how it was dye sublimated initially.  Best practice is to UB with the Grey Blocker (just kidding that stuff is actually unprintable, mix it up with some of the white and add 1-2% viscosity buster), white over that if needed and then go to colors. 

For the transfers, Stahls has some cad cut options and I want to say even some printed options specifically designed to block dye sub from migrating into it when pressing onto dye subbed fabrics.

[gtmfg]

Sublimate em' give me a pm. My buddy owns one of the best Cycliing jersey companies in the states. He's sent papers to me to test stuff works awesome

[sqslabs]

This might be an application where low cure temp silicone inks are an option.  Please PM me or Rob Coleman with your contact and shipping information if you would like to get a sample to try out.

Thanks Peter, I'll send you a PM now.  At what temperature do the silicone inks cure at?

Best thing you can do all around is lower all cure temps.

Wilflex Epic Performance for the print.  This is one of the big reasons we went with the PC system, we can mix a little pint of some Performance color if needed.  Cures at 290˚F, should be well enough away from the temp at which it will re-sublimate but it will depend on the garment and exactly how it was dye sublimated initially.  Best practice is to UB with the Grey Blocker (just kidding that stuff is actually unprintable, mix it up with some of the white and add 1-2% viscosity buster), white over that if needed and then go to colors. 

For the transfers, Stahls has some cad cut options and I want to say even some printed options specifically designed to block dye sub from migrating into it when pressing onto dye subbed fabrics.

These are actually white jerseys with minor sublimated accents, which is why I didn't think much about it going into the job originally.  I'll be printing (and numbering) in black on the white areas so the dyes releasing into the inks/films fortunately won't be an issue in this case.  The problem I had is the sublimated area releasing dyes into the white areas it was laying on top of when run through the dryer. 

I agree that low temp inks are the key here, as if I can keep the sublimated areas from releasing dyes I should be in good shape.  I just have no idea at what temp the sublimated areas begin to release the dyes.  I guess that's probably where I should begin on my testing, and then find the ink to match.  Will shoot for 290 to start and see if the Epic Performance will do the trick.  Thanks much for the tips.

Sublimate em' give me a pm. My buddy owns one of the best Cycliing jersey companies in the states. He's sent papers to me to test stuff works awesome

One of my contract customers has a sublimation setup and if my tests don't fare well tomorrow I'll see if he can sublimate the logos/numbers on the jerseys as a last resort.  Thanks for the offer though, it is appreciated.

[Rob Coleman]

SQSLABS -- I just sent you an email and am processing a sample requests for 35240RFU SILICONE OPAQUE BLACK.  As PW stated, silicone could very well be s solution here.  Recommended cure temps are 255-285F for 1-2 minutes.  This temp reange is generally below the sublimation point of polyester dyes.  However, for extremely heat sensitive goods, you can run lower temps/time - just allow the catalyst time to continue to cross link for full curing development.

For Plastisol - Wilflex Top Score or Performance inks are excellent choices as well.  290F cure.  Top Score comes in a line of standard colors that are opaque and bleed resistant.  In some cases (sublimation, extremely bad bleeders, etc), Underbase Gray will be needed as a first down.

In summary for ImageStar silicone:

A large garment manufacturer who specializes in polyester performance wear – and prints a lot of sublimated camo style - has been running our ImageStar Silicone product for about one year now as our primary pre-commercial beta site.  They have been instrumental in helping us to hone in on the formula.  So where are we?

Plans are to soft launch a set of RFU colors late October.  These colors are matched to the Wilflex Top Score colors if you are familiar with this line.  The base and PC’s are available, but we do not have the formulations in a nice concise database yet.  We do have about 900 PMS colors matched if I am not mistaken.  Additionally, we are getting approval on this manufacturer’s trim colors to offer to their customers as RFU inks.

The Technical Data Sheet details all the part numbers as well as mixing instructions, storage, best practices, etc. 

Best, Rob

[Denis Kolar]

You can sublimate on the back with no issues. You just have to thread the jersey on the heat press, so the back is on the press and the front is hanging below.
Also, if you cut your number and use low heat vinyl material, you should be fine.
http://www.specialty-graphics.com/siser-easyweed-sheet-9x15.html

Siser Easyweed applies at 302 degrees and for 10 seconds.

Just make sure you apply vinyl and press it just below the sublimated area.

Good luck

[sqslabs]

Thanks again to everyone for the help.  I'll be giving the low temp inks a shot and hope the issue doesn't pop back up.

One last question.. If the jerseys are doing this at my shop, will they do the same thing when the team washes/dries the jerseys at home?  I've attached a photo of the test shirt I had originally posted about, which was folded in half when it went through the dryer.

[mimosatexas]

A normal dryer should not get hot enough to cause that as far as I know.  You can always include laundering instructions to protect yourself though

[sqslabs]

A normal dryer should not get hot enough to cause that as far as I know.  You can always include laundering instructions to protect yourself though

Awesome, thanks man.

[sqslabs]

Last question..  In cases like this, can Nylobond be used as a low-cure additive?

[Denis Kolar]

Last question..  In cases like this, can Nylobond be used as a low-cure additive?

Are you printing on Nylon?
Why don't you get a real "low Cure"additive?


Do you have a heat press? Heat press the vinyl and be done with it.

[sqslabs]

Are you printing on Nylon?
Why don't you get a real "low Cure"additive?


Do you have a heat press? Heat press the vinyl and be done with it.

I am going to "heat press the vinyl and be done with it".  But I also have to print the shirts in three locations, today, and am trying to come up with a solution based on what I have at my shop.

[Homer]

we just ran 36 knit beanie hats with this stuff... no heat needed at all, ever, just a box fan...it is a bit tricky with dry in, but use the retarder and you'll be cool.

http://wmplasticsinc.com/eco-aqua-waterbase-ink-c-79.html?zenid=edb70504722a60e236d23fd2d698b30c