what's everyone liking for mesh these days?

[Underbase37]

Absolutely love the Murakami mesh, I'm not sure I will ever use another mesh ever again..... Yes it can be fragile, but its worth getting used to, for me the pros outweigh the cons.

Murphy37

[starchild]

So it's made by the same company which makes it for Saati? And it's a "smart mesh", which would be a thin mesh, right? What is the thread micron?

A thin mesh would be a "S" mesh-
The thread thickness/thinness will give the ink a shorter distance to travel
The thread smaller diameter reduces- pressure drop (The ink flow slows down in the middle of the open area where the threads are at it's highest axis, the open area is the most narrow)
The increased open area affords the squeegee to align the ink pigments (feed) with less effort and encourages healthier ink volumes.

The "smart mesh" has certain properties over other meshes-
When it's weaved the threads are even in both warp and weft directions- Balance is built in..
The threads have a special coating that lowers it's surface tension beyond any inks that passes through it- It clears easily reduces ink clinging.

[Rockers]

I still did not manage to find a Saati mesh that compares to the Murakami mesh. Could anyone point me in the right direction please. Just wondering if I`m looking in the wrong place. A link would be great.

[RICK STEFANICK]

reality for us is.. the cheap aluminum frames with whatever mesh the little Chinese guy uses ..when they rip we throw them away..or hey last month we bought some nice tight stretched used wood screens for 2.00 each.

[Frog]

reality for us is.. the cheap aluminum frames with whatever mesh the little Chinese guy uses ..when they rip we throw them away..or hey last month we bought some nice tight stretched used wood screens for 2.00 each.

Watch out Rick, you're trampling on what is considered sacred ground for many here. We have a new paradigm in the realm of frames and mesh.

[mimosatexas]

I can't imagine going back to cheapo ebay frames after using the S-mesh statics.  I think I will be upgrading to rollers very soon though since I am maybe a week away from finishing my screen room and having the room for a stretching table finally.  I dread having to use my standard mesh screens, unless they are 110's and I'm doing school stuff with plastisol or 230+ for some top colors and poster work.  Otherwise, I am basically at a point where I am using 180S or 225S for basically everything, and 300S for the occasional black detail screen.

[Frog]

See Rick, I warned you! There's the first volley!

[mimosatexas]

  Don't get me wrong, ghetto frames can still do good work, but my body LOVES the S-mesh since I am still a manual only printer and my volume has been increasing rapidly...

[Frog]

Don't get me wrong, I was just warning Rick of the trend here. And the "ghetto" appellation needs to be earned by something a little more Mickey Mouse than properly stretched mesh glued onto commercially made static frames. Let's at least nail our own frames together before stapling the mesh. (if we don't cut our own grooves for a cord, the first true retensionables)

[mimosatexas]

Don't get me wrong, I was just warning Rick of the trend here. And the "ghetto" appellation needs to be earned by something a little more Mickey Mouse than properly stretched mesh glued onto commercially made static frames. Let's at least nail our own frames together before stapling the mesh. (if we don't cut our own grooves for a cord, the first true retensionables)

My first screens were goodwill sewing hoops stretched with pantyhose and painted with elmers glue.  I printed with thickened coffee.  It sucked.  I agree the ebay frames are more cheap then ghetto.

I fully support using whatever is affordable and gets the job done, but o man are those S mesh statics sweet...

[Sbrem]

Don't get me wrong, I was just warning Rick of the trend here. And the "ghetto" appellation needs to be earned by something a little more Mickey Mouse than properly stretched mesh glued onto commercially made static frames. Let's at least nail our own frames together before stapling the mesh. (if we don't cut our own grooves for a cord, the first true retensionables)

My first screens were goodwill sewing hoops stretched with pantyhose and painted with elmers glue.  I printed with thickened coffee.  It sucked.  I agree the ebay frames are more cheap then ghetto.

I fully support using whatever is affordable and gets the job done, but o man are those S mesh statics sweet...

That is friggin' hilarious...

Steve

[tonypep]

Waterbase=pretty much whatever is laying around. H20 don't care

[Frog]

Waterbase=pretty much whatever is laying around. H20 don't care

Yeah I'm a little surprised at the trends towards rollers and waterbase seeming to move together.

[RICK STEFANICK]

See Rick, I warned you! There's the first volley!

lol. its cool. its been a tough year we use what gets us by right now

[shurloc]

For those wondering, Murakami really has the thin-thread mesh nailed, but the others make a few counts as well.

Saati: 81/70 - 196/48 - 230/40 - 305/31 - 355/31

Sefar: 83/70 - 195/48 - 230/40 - 305/31 - 355/31

Murakami - 80/71 - 110/71 - 120/48 - 135/48 -150/48 - 180/48 - 200/48 - 225/40 - 300/30 - 330/30 - 350/30

You can see that Murakami just has more options - but we will keep pushing our reps to pay attention.