Looking to start using my rollers finally.
Zoo... when you say like a bike tube, do you mean that with mesh you take them up and then back off and lock them down or do you just mean letting them relax while being locked down and re-tensioning. (like most videos show.)
That's regarding loading your own mesh with lock strips. You want to "seat" it in the channel properly before going up to tension. If the mesh was crinkled in there it would severely weaken the screen if not just pop it on the table. This also give you a preview of how accurate your corner softening was if using a new mesh/tension. You can always adjust the corners after taking the tension off and re-stretch. What I meant by the {not too accurate} analogy is, if you loaded a new innertube in you bike tire and just blasted it full to 55psi in a matter of seconds you would probably get a pinch flat unless the tube was in there perfect. You put some air in, check that all's well, let some out and then go on filling it all the way.
Otherwise I build my screens just like in John's video or anyone elses. What I don't do is crank them all the way up and pull them off the table after a minute. I go up, down, up higher, down and then all the way up and hold for as long as possible. Sometimes I skip the middle pulse.
With a table you can be loading your next screen while the previous one hangs out on the roller master, there's just no reason to yank them off the roller master after just a few moments of tensioning, the extra time on there can only help. On M3 frames, the tension will jump again when you tighten the bolts by around 2-6 n/cm at the lower/middling tensions and more at higher tensions. I use a roller master and always have so I can't offer much help on doing it manually with the wrench, we don't even have one in the shop. If you're going at it sans-roller master then yeah, I would assume your going to tension, tighten bolts to hold, tension, loosen bolts, tension, repeat, wait, etc. Stretch Devices makes an excellent manual for this.